The Loo Sanction
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 1.7 from 20 votes
Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | (TR): Todd Swain, May 1991, FL: Todd Gordon & Cyndie Bransford, November 1991 |
Page Views: | 1,229 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Bo Johnston on Oct 5, 2005 · Updates |
Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Start below a scooped face with three bolts. The scooped face is between Strawberry Jam and Straight Flush. There are two possible starts - a grainy, wide crack or via the left side of a pedestal. The bolted section above is the crux. You'll need to move left and nearly campus up ledges and dynos! The finishing roof underclings are good as well with adequate pro and be sure to extend those runners to avoid drag.
The Loo Sanction was the next book written by the author Trevanian after writing The Eiger Sanction. He also wrote Shibumi, which is a route on the White Cliffs of Dover. In Great Britain, a bathroom/rest room is sometimes referred to as a "loo," hence the tie in with Outhouse Rock.
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