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The Long Riders 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Paul Van Betten & Jay Smith
Page Views: 292
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Apr 24, 2016

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Paul Van Betten on the FA of The Long Riders (5.12...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Long Riders is a great pitch of difficult trad climbing with engaging movement and gear. Begin in the righthand of two left-facing corners that are located on the left end of the Mud Spring Wing immediately left of a massive, low roof.

Trundle up a hand crack to a loose ledge and begin climbing. In two spots (near a white rock scar) one can depart the corner itself by climbing the face to the left - however the natural line and protection opportunities will keep you returning to the corner. A narrow ledge at 2/3 height affords a rest before a difficult stemming crux above very small gear (000 C3's and brass) to a finger lock. Above this a short stretch of "athletic" liebacks and stems leads to a bolted anchor.

Note that there used to be an old (bail?) anchor on the sloping ledge immediately below the crux but it has been removed. Also, I speculated (incorrectly - see comment below) that this route was originally protected with a piton or two. Without them the climbing is spicy and committing but I am reluctant to say the pitch is objectively dangerous if you're crafty with small gear.

Protection 

A single set from 0.3 Camalot to #4 Camalot plus as many 000 C3's as you can find. I had two, but four would not go unused. Black Aliens, grey TCU's, and 0.1 Camalots are all just a touch too big. Also, bring RP's.


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By Paul Van Betten
Apr 26, 2016

No pitons were used on the FA. Just the gear available in 1982....mostly RP's
Remember some wild and wide stemming though

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