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Beinn Trilleachan - Etive Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Long Reach, The T 
Pinch - Direct Start, The T 
Spartan Slab T 
Swastika T 

The Long Reach 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 700'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 17
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Sep 16, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Looking up the first pitch of Spartan, The Long Re...

Description 

This is arguable one of the finest routes on the slabs - bold climbing on perfect granite.

1. Climb a slim groove up rightwards to a ledge and belay.

2. From the belay climb up leftwards on the perfect slab, until a very committing move up onto a quartz dike can be made. Follow the dike up left to the belay.

3. Move up to the overlap of Swastika. Pull through the overlap, and go up right and belay on a short corner.

4. Move up left and climb a slab passing a quartz pocket. Reach up and continue up and left to the belay below a mini overlap.

5. Climb up and over the overlap, then up and right to below a crack in the overlap.

6. Pass through the overlap on long reaches and follow the groove up until possible to exit via a crack.

Descend using the obvious path on the right.

Location 

Start midway between the coffin stone and Swastika

Protection 

Trad Gear


Photos of The Long Reach Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking towards the crux slab pitch of The Long Re...
BETA PHOTO: Looking towards the crux slab pitch of The Long Re...

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By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Sep 16, 2007

In my opinion, this is the best climb on the slabs. There isn't one weak pitch on the climb. My favorite is the 2nd pitch, a classic Etive slab outing.