The Long Night
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|Permanently closed during ski season|
This is the premier "Dad Crag" route. 5 short pitches, all bolted, finishes on a cool alpine feeling ridge right under the tram cables. Best approach is to walk down the east ridge trail and traverse to the route under Corbets's Couloir. Hiking down Corbet's would work too. It is possible to rap the "Chick Brain" couloir but not recommended.
Pitch 1: 15 meters on surprisingly good kitty-litter 5.8 5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor
Pitch 2: 25 meters and the route crux: 15 feet of .11b, 12 bolts to Big ledge.
Pitch 3: 35 meters of bolted flakes and cracks. Probably the best pitch. Rightmost of the three sport pitches on the big ledge. Old school 5.10+ 14 bolts kind of closely spaced
Pitch 4: 25 meters 5.7 bolts staying left of the huge roof to a great ledge on the knife edge ridge below the tower 5. Glory pitch with about 8 bolts.
Pitch 5: 35 meters of 5.5 with some bolts. A little bit run out. finish on a big choss ledge one layer under the top of it all. Solo 4th to the top. 3 or 4 bolts and some loose rock.
14 draws and some slings. Maybe a few cams for the 5.5 R. All bolts are zinc plated steel and mated to zinc plated steel hangers. All bolts are a min of 3" x 3/8, most are 3 1/2 x 3/8". Rock quality in all holes was good.