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The Long Lead 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Season: Fall thru Spring
Page Views: 4,451
Submitted By: Mike on May 16, 2006

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Flynn on the final summit chimney!



A fun 3 1/2 pitch route with spectacular scenery, decent rock (for The Supes), and some exposure. P1: Make a few face moves to get into a squeeze chimney. Ascend the chimney and cracks to a ledge. A short 5.6ish pitch. P2: Step up and right over a pocketed face, then up and left into a large right-facing dihedral (visible from the ground.) Climb up the dihedral until a face up and right brings you to a large ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 5.8, 140'. P3: Scramble up and left into a wide chimney. Bridge and chimney up past a chockstone (sling for pro) and then exit out right. Step across chimney to left and mantle over a small ledge, then low-angle face & crack to base of next chimney. P3 & 1/2: Scramble up the chimney (3rd class) then chimney for about 10' (5.easy) past a chockstone to summit.


Located on the left (east) side of Barks Canyon Wall underneath a squeeze chimney. Descent is to scramble down the backside, then around to the East and down to the base.


Bring a standard rack from small to about a #3 camalot. Leave the micro pro at home because of rock quality; there are plenty of placements using only small to medium pro. Small Tricams work decently in pockets on face if runout is getting to you

Photos of The Long Lead Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the base of the Long Lead.
BETA PHOTO: View from the base of the Long Lead.
Rock Climbing Photo: Levi coming up the last bit of face climbing on pi...
Levi coming up the last bit of face climbing on pi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chimney on Pitch 3
BETA PHOTO: Chimney on Pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: Dihedral on P2 (it's more vertical than it looks i...
BETA PHOTO: Dihedral on P2 (it's more vertical than it looks i...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Long Lead. P1.
The Long Lead. P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Don't go straight up here for The Long Lead.  Face...
Don't go straight up here for The Long Lead. Face...
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing up the last 30' of the second pitch. Eas...
Finishing up the last 30' of the second pitch. Eas...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick coming up the 1st pitch.
Nick coming up the 1st pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: The first half of the second pitch.  Fantastic ste...
BETA PHOTO: The first half of the second pitch. Fantastic ste...

Comments on The Long Lead Add Comment
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By JaredVagy
From: Santa Monica, Ca
Feb 12, 2012

This was an interesting climb. The first pitch was a little awkward. The second pitch has some wildly fun stemming in the dihedral but I had difficulty protecting it - a little heady. You then traverse up to the belay on two rusty bolts. The next pitch is a fun chimney where you belay on top of the chock stone (the webbing on the chockstone below the belay is old and not safe to clip). Belay on top of the chockstone above with 2 inch gear. Final pitch involves going up and left over the boulder above (protects well). Go up and left to a hole to finish or you may be able to go right and straight up a fun but unprotectable looking chimney. To find the anchors after the last pitch, climb up and over a bulge and traverse/downclimb (use a belay) north and once you cross to another rock go up and west 5 feet to the top of the formation and 2 shiny rap bolts on the west side. Hike out south. There was one additional rappell that we had to re-rig with a coordalete. Long approach, poor rock quality, you can cheat the squeeze chimneys with face holds - but overall it was fun! One star - maybe
By Tim Heid
From: AZ
Apr 7, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Classic! Pitch 1 is good, but the 2nd pitch is a gem. The stemming is stellar and pulling around the roof is fun as well. Pitch 3 is okay, next time I would do the R last pitch of Stroke It Gently instead.

Beta Alert:(To add to the description if you want a bit more detail)

Pitch 1: 5.7 90' A bit awkward to get started. Stem, offwidth, and chimney on mostly good, but semi spicy gear. Angle eases off after 50' and crack widens, I belayed 40' after this w/ a C4 .5, 2, 3 on a nice ledge.

Pitch 2: 5.8 130' Don't go straight up into the overhanging OW. instead, step immediately right onto face for 15' into a beautiful looking 70' dihedral. Lots of thin cams and small nuts make the gear bomber. I wished I had a purple and green C3, for this section but it's fine without. After that climb out right from a big roof and continue on easier face climbing to a huge ledge on the right. 2 bolt anchor(old bolts). Use lots of slings to avoid drag. This pitch is 4 stars and amazing the whole way.

Pitch 3: 5.6 80' Shorter pitch, but grovely in the chimney. Consider slinging gear and follower trailing pack between legs. Clip webbing around a chock and head straight up on the OUTSIDE of the chock. A few more fun face moves to gain another chock lead you to the 3rd class stuff. Few options for belay, lots of chunky blocks to sling, but most are pretty crumbly.

Descent: Walk straight back and up to find webbing with a quick link to rap about 50' and head south to find trail back to Bluff Springs Trail. Bring a bit of webbing to replace old stuff.

Rack: 1x set nuts, 1x cams from blue MC-orange MC, 2x .5-#3 C4, optional set of C3's to sew it up (I did). 12 slings. I think I used everything at least once, especially the smaller stuff.

The rock is surprisingly good in the back of the crack where thin gear works best. I placed all of the smallest nuts and cams I brought on P2, and they were bomber.
By RyanJames
Feb 3, 2013

Definitly take singles of the micro pro. This desert rock eats it up. Definitly used the 00 (and even 000 from what I remember) on P1 and P2.
By Jacob Jones
From: oklazona
Dec 14, 2014

Did this today. The hike in and up was about 50 minutes. Fun climb. Three pitches. Agree with Tim's beta. Not for the newby 5.8 leader. The start to P1 is a little spicy. I couldn't get anything in at the the p2 (route) crux and had to run it out about 15-20 feet until the dihedral opened up.
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Dec 16, 2014

There is a rappel anchor atop the (roughly) West summit that is a more pleasant rappel than the old one through the tree. One can then scramble around to the walk-off, or rappel all the way down the face from here, but I'm not sure if you need 2 ropes for this or not.
By Flynn Mcfarland
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 30, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

I climbed this last Winter 2014 and I got to say the last pitch felt much more difficult than 5.6 plus had some spicy pro, I think this is a size dependent rating and should be taken loosely. Maybe I went up the wrong face holds after the P3 chimney because it was slightly past vertical and was thin with a run out over the chimney/ledge, definitely not 5.6(maybe some rock broke?). I stepped across directly over the same chock you can sling coming out of the chimney since this seemed tho most viable way.
By Tim Heid
From: AZ
Nov 30, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

There are new bolts and chains about 15' to the right of the old pitch 2 anchor(2 old bolts and a drilled piton). I mention it because it can be hard to spot when you get to the ledge since it's slightly around the corner. Thankfully you don't have to use those scary looking anchors anymore.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Apr 5, 2016

Single rope rap possible, but it takes 3: 1 from the anchors that are slightly off summit to the big ledge on top of p. 2, then another single line to the anchors on top of p. 1 of Glory Road, then the last.

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