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Long Chimney, The T,TR 
Open Face T 
Open Face Slab S,TR 

The Long Chimney 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a PG13 [details]
FA: Joe Walsh (mid-1930s)
Page Views: 135
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on May 16, 2008  with updates from Moeancurly

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BETA PHOTO: Orangutan Buttress. A new line of bolts went up in...

Description 

The first technical climb done at Stover by Joe Walsh and friends from the Philadelphia Trail Club.

Climb the obvious chimney on the right side of the Open Face to the top.

Location 

At the chimney on the ridght side of the Open Face.

Protection 

Standard rack, plus some big stuff.

This route now has bolts at the top, so it's topropeable.


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By Moeancurly
Sep 7, 2016

There is a pair of (new?) bolts at the top of this route so you can top rope it. A 60 meter rope will not reach the bottom if you clip your rope in right at the bolts (there are no chains, just bolts). You might need drop ~10' of webbing or static line off the bolts if your rope is 60 m.

It's not very frequently climbed so it can be dirty; there's also quite a bit of vegetation halfway through. Once you get passed that it's a nice easy chimney. Take care when belaying down, you could easily smack your head or back on some of the features on the right side if you're not paying attention.

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