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Tourist Trap
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angstrom's Away S 
Long and The Short of It, The T 
Nipple Jam T 
Pastie T 
Pickpocket S 
Plumber's Crack, The T 
Rat Face TR 
Rat Race T 
Tab's Flakes TR 
Thrill Hammer T,S 
Wee Little One S 

The Long and The Short of It 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Gavin Emmons, Kyle Queener, Brad Young, October 27, 2014
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 365
Submitted By: Brad Young on Nov 22, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Brad Young during the FA of The Long and the Short...

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Description 

This climb begins on the Tourist Trap'’s midway ledge, 25 feet right of the two bolts found halfway up Nipple Jam. Start in an up-and-left hand crack. This leads 15 feet to a roof (gear to 1 ½ inches). Make one move up the roof to the first bolt (reachy). Three more bolts protect climbing up and generally right to a shallow corner. Move up the corner past one more bolt to a two-bolt anchor, 55 feet from the start of the route.

Location 

The far right side of The Tourist Trap.

Protection 

Gear to 1 ½ inches and five bolts.


Comments on The Long and The Short of It Add Comment
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By Austin Donisan
From: San Mateo, California
Feb 16, 2016

The crack section is shorter than described, and the first bolt could probably be stick clipped from the ledge. Crux is just after the bolt.
By Brad Young
Mar 28, 2017

Anyone who printed out this route's description before this week might compare it to the current version and notice that there is one more bolt on this route than there was when it was first put up.

The first ascent party added another bolt, up high, to eliminate the chance of a 25 foot, swinging fall in the last climbing to the anchor (where some of the rock was loose). What was a significant run-out at the end of the climb seemed out of character with the rest of the route.

Also while I was out there I checked out this abrupt comment by the poster above (Austin Donisan): "The crack section is shorter than described...."

By tape measure, from the ledge one stands on when starting the route, to the roof is 15 feet 2 inches (measured along the crack, of course).

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