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The Lonely 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
Page Views: 766
Submitted By: Drake Pregnall on Sep 12, 2012

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Not the best photo but it gives a good idea of the...


This "route" is more of a direct start to the routes in the "Above the Practice Wall Area" of Pitchoff. It starts in the same spot that Pete's Farewell does, but essentially goes left instead of right and ends up spitting you out right around the middle of the traverse line of the second pitch of every climb in this area. From there you can link it up to whatever your heart desires. In more detail, you start by scrambling on to the first big ledge in the first pitch of Pete's Farewell. From here, break left into a series of left rising, right facing corners. Work up to and overhang which you clear on the far left side. Find and climb up the gently left rising crack which eventually puts out on the traverse line.


Start at the base of Pete's Farewell, and break left as soon as you can.


Most pieces will need to be extended on this climb since you are essentially taking two pitches and turning it into one that inevitably wanders a bit. Protection of all sizes can be found almost anywhere along the line.

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By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Jan 18, 2014

This is actually pretty good climbing, and a nice alternative to the regular start to Pete's. You should be able to go from the ground to the top of P2 of Pete's easily (use long runners to reduce drag, as it will be a fairly long pitch). And I'm pretty sure (even considering the mental dimness of all the passing decades) that the full name that we used for this was "The Lonely 5.6"
By Nolan Huther
From: Clarkson University
May 6, 2017

Linking this to the top of P2 of Pete's Farewell was a great way to do it, makes for a long pitch, linking corners and traverses, fairly sustained at the grade. Reminds me of the Gunks a bit. I recommend it as long as you won't be cutting off anyone on the El or Pete's ahead of you- its much better than P1 of Pete's. Long runners are necessary, and a few doubles too! Makes Pete's a much better climb in my opinion.

In retrospect, I wonder if you can make a short pitch through the corners/roofs at the start, then up the crack and into the usual P2 of Pete's. Might help reduce drag...?

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