Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches
FA: Dick & Karen Traverse Oct 2001
Page Views: 637 total · 6/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Oct 8, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

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Warning Access Issue: You may see the Peregrine Falcons closure signs for Painted Walls on the approach path to Rainbow but, so far, Rainbow has always remained open. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This route (and its variation) is the "last" route in the mid-section. In geology the "Littoral zone" is, roughly speaking, that area of the coast between the normal high-tide mark and the "highest" mark of the ocean, e.g. in a storm (I presume) like Hurricane Sandy.

The "R" rating presupposes that you find the TriCam placement on P1...otherwise it is "R/X".

START- Just about exactly where the climber's path meets the slab.

P1- Climb up the dark bottom slab, over the overlap 30-40 feet up (pretty much the same as for "First Wave" and "Take a Giant Step") and continue up to a jutting, right-facing flake that somewhat resembles the submerged, "battering ram" prows of ancient Greek and Roman warships. Climb over this (gear) to the slab above. Continue up the slab; find the hidden pocket for a TriCam, and then over the steepening swell, [Crux 5.7 R, easiest on the right.] [Var.] and then on to the double bolt anchor not visible from below. 130 +/- ft 5.7 R (R/X if you don't find the pocket)

Variation: Below the swell, move right to a left-facing, arching flake/crack which is exactly on the boundary with the "Perfect Wave Slab", protect here and then move up and left to the double bolt belay. 5.5 PG

P2 - Not too sure where the FA-er's went. To keep to the 5.5 grade (as the pitch is supposed to be) step left from the belay and then up left-ish on friction and stairsteps, with one 5.5-ish move off the highest "step". Above this, climb easy friction either moving left to the dbl bolt anchor of Rubberneck/Pencilneck 110 ft, 5.5 , ...or.. run out the rope straight up to the huge pine tree rap at the very top of the cliff. about 180+ ft 5.5, with much 5.2-5.4 R/X

The other possibility of the FA route for P2 is: Up and slightly right, towards the left-curving crack/flake, but moving up to the crack/flake, and then back away from it after placing protection, seemed more 5.7-ish than 5.5.

Protection Suggest change

TriCams and a normal rack

Photos

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