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3. The Mid Section
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bruin T 
building steam with a grain of salt T 
Coloring Book T 
Dead Easy T 
Face Dances  T 
Fifty Center T 
L' Anniversaire T 
Littoral Zone, The T 
Livin' Easy T 
Pencilneck Geek T 
Rhino Skin T 
Rubberneck T 
Scramble to "Launch Ledge" T 
True Colors T 
Unknown next to L'Anniversaire T 

The Littoral Zone 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: Dick & Karen Traverse Oct 2001
Page Views: 61
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Oct 8, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: RW on lower moves of "The Littoral Zone"


This route (and its variation) is the "last" route in the mid-section. In geology the "Littoral zone" is, roughly speaking, that area of the coast between the normal high-tide mark and the "highest" mark of the ocean, e.g. in a storm (I presume) like Hurricane Sandy.

The "R" rating presupposes that you find the TriCam placement on P1...otherwise it is "R/X".

START- Just about exactly where the climber's path meets the slab.
P1- Climb up the dark bottom slab, over the overlap 30-40 feet up (pretty much the same as for "First Wave" and "Take a Giant Step") and continue up to a jutting, right-facing flake that somewhat resembles the submerged, "battering ram" prows of ancient Greek and Roman warships. Climb over this (gear) to the slab above. Continue up the slab; find the hidden pocket for a TriCam, and then over the steepening swell, [Crux 5.7 R, easiest on the right.] [Var.] and then on to the double bolt anchor not visible from below. 130 +/- ft 5.7 R (R/X if you don't find the pocket)

Variation: Below the swell, move right to a left-facing, arching flake/crack which is exactly on the boundary with the "Perfect Wave Slab", protect here and then move up and left to the double bolt belay. 5.5 PG

P2 - Not too sure where the FA-er's went. To keep to the 5.5 grade (as the pitch is supposed to be) step left from the belay and then up left-ish on fraction and stairsteps, with one 5.5-ish move off the highest "step". Above this easy friction either moving left to the dbl bolt anchor of Rubberneck/Pencilneck 110 ft, 5.5, ...or.. run out the rope straight up to the huge pine tree rap at the very top of the cliff. about 180+ ft 5.5, with much 5.2-5.4 R/X

The other possibility of where the FA-er went is up, and slightly right, towards the left-curving crack/flake, but moving up to it, and then back away after placing protection, seemed more 5.7-ish than 5.5.


TriCams and a normal rack

Photos of The Littoral Zone Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: RW near the "tri-cam / Cam" hole on Litt...
BETA PHOTO: RW near the "tri-cam / Cam" hole on Litt...
Rock Climbing Photo: "X" to "R" Placement on the Li...
BETA PHOTO: "X" to "R" Placement on the Li...
Rock Climbing Photo: The P1 flake of the Littoral Zone is center-left i...
BETA PHOTO: The P1 flake of the Littoral Zone is center-left i...
Rock Climbing Photo: "Flake Variation"
BETA PHOTO: "Flake Variation"

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