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The Little Todd 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 493
Submitted By: Patrick Eger on Dec 5, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: The line

Description 

Slabby lower part is one big crux on crappy crimps and crappy feet. After the undercling is probably the real crux, disappearing feet and even more crappy crimps get you up to the ledge. Fun mantle over the ledge to finish may be yet another crux. Wanders a little far to the left of the bolt anchors, but safe as long as you've got a strong sheath on your rope for the swing =)

Location 

Start ~5 feet left of Bort. Proceed directly up the face on some tiny hands and tinier feet to a decent rest at an undercling. Directly above the undercling is a left-leaning crack with an unexpected beta involving less of the actual crack than expected. Throw to the top left for a finishing jug and recover a bit. Traverse right across the lip directly under the anchors, and get up on top of the slopey ledge in any way possible. Finish as if on Bort.

Protection 

Use Bort anchors.


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By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Dec 10, 2011

The true name of this route is 'The Little Todd'

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