|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Dom on Mar 30, 2008|
|Comments on The Little People||Add Comment|
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By Franz Buzawa
Aug 14, 2010
2 stars is about right. With lots of exposure and serious fall potential through the upper section (after you move off of the initial arete), this one's not for the faint of heart or for the novice 10a leader.
I'd also like to see the anchors moved from the present location--which is incredibly awkward to get to and doesn't add significant value to the climb to the face just below. That ledge would provide a good, safe position to clip the anchors from and rope drag would be about the same if the new anchor was placed high enough.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Oct 7, 2010
FA was Ed Esmond.
I thought this was a good route. It is slightly heady feeling though, so doesn't get done as often as others nearby. I don't remember anything particularly odd with the anchor placement. Watch the end of your rope when lowering. More than one person has been dropped through inattention even with a 60 meter rope and the landing is not good.
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 24, 2012
|Well worth it if you're solid at the grade. Great position and fun moves on the upper section. I thought the thrutch to the anchors was in keeping with the rest of the climb ... makes you earn it!|
By M Bageant
From: Cambridge, MA
Sep 21, 2015
I thought this route wasn't physically more difficult than 5.10a but was certainly a psychological thriller. I actually quite enjoyed it, the route is varied and interesting and deserves more traffic.
Lots of ledge fall potential; the bolts are placed as best as they can be to keep you off the ledges, but once you're up high, rope stretch is enough to drop you. Be confident in the grade or have a good belayer. A bit spicy in places as well.
I had a hard time finding the route and the bolts, so here is some advice in the hopes that it will encourage more folks to get on this one.
Once you are at the top of the arete, don't climb too high into the roof; the bolts are too far right for a reason...
Once you are about to start the part with the roof, you won't be able to see the next two bolts...but have faith, they are there! They are approximately in the centerline of the bulge, hidden behind/on top of knobby holds. Look for bolts with hangers.
However, the route does not go straight up the bulge---it would go at probably 5.11-! Traverse all the way left under the roof and go into the blind dihedral to the left of the roof. Look to your right as your near the top of the dihedral for your next hard-to-find bolt.
Next do the scary mantle. The field of moss straight above the bolt is a field of moss for a reason; look for small hidden holds in the moss-free area to the right.
Finally, move back to the bolt and climb straight up the column/buttress of rock the bolt is in; don't try to go up the corner to the right of the bolt straight to the anchor!
A cool route and worth doing if you're in the area, but not a good lead for someone trying to break into 5.10.
By Ye Fu
Jun 6, 2016
I would only recommend to do this route if you are a good 5.11 leader, and are confident not to take a fall on it.
We attempted this route after we finished Jolt. It's actually OK before the bulge. There are some awkward moves along cracks between the 5th and 6th clips, the bolts are a little bit far away on the face. Very likely you will hit the ledge if you took a lead fall here.
Things get a little bit tough at the 7th clip on the bulge. There are some crimps above the bulge, but no good holds if you go straight up. And it is quite wet under the bulge. Took a lead fall here and got some scratches on my hand and forearm, not serious though.
We figured the right way is to traverse left under to climb up along the dihedral. My partner successfully climbed up, but took a lead fall in the dihedral, swung back and slammed onto the wall on the rightside. It's brutal. He got some twists of the ankle and blood on the knee. We ended up leaving a quickdraw on it and bailed.
Definitely thrilling, and would be an exciting experience had we not taken the falls.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Aug 18, 2016
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
|5.10a? Really? No chance. This thing is much harder than that. (I mean, c'mon, it's another inobvious, quirky Ed Esmond route.)|