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Medlicott Dome, Left
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Lighter Side, The S 
Loco Yokel T 
Scorpion T 
Super Chicken T 
Wailing Wall T 
Yawn, The T 

The Lighter Side 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Steve Schenider & Roland Arsons, 1980's
Season: Summer, fall
Page Views: 1,136
Submitted By: chummer on Jul 8, 2009

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  • Description 

    This is one of the cleanest most striking aretes I've seen. The route is about steep sustained knob crimping, pinching, and high stepping.

    There's a thin move down low but the real deal is endurance for the whole thing. Run lots of laps on the Cottage Domes before heading up here.

    Location 

    Climb the first 2 pitches of the Yawn. After the squeeze, belay then bust out left to the arete.

    Protection 

    Gear for the Yawn approach. Bolts for the arete.


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