REI Community
The North End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aggro Monk S 
Black Uhuru S 
Blo Jo Jono S 
Boulder Hypocricy S 
Churning in the Cheese S 
Darrylect of Dialect, The S 
Form, The S 
Function, The S 
Houses of the Holy S 
I Like It Black S 
King Coral S 
La Primera Vez S 
Laser Gods S 
Lifus's Farm Tools, The S 
Makadon S 
Mono Jono S 
New and Unknown S 
Nyorgai S 
Quiet Time S 
Stairway to Heaven S 
Swanktofy Yourself S 
Thing 1, The S 
Thing 2, The S 
Under the Hand S 
Under the Milky Way S 
Unknown S 
Up Your Booty Crack S 

The Lifus's Farm Tools 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Van Horn
Page Views: 1,251
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Sep 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Top roping the fun arete route, Lifus's Farm Tools...


This is a super cool, moderate, arete climb at the Gallagher Buttress area. It has nice pockets between thinner make-you-think moves with a position-sensitive crux past the small roof on the arete's left side.

The first bolt is very high, because the rock down low is suspect and doesn't appear to offer any good bolt placements. Using the wall to the left for your feet to reach the first bolt is a secure way to get it, but the arete moves to the first bolt are good too if you're OK with run-out off the deck.


Follow the trail up to the Gallagher Buttress. This route is on the obvious, featured prow just left of the huge, undercut roof first encountered when you reach the Gallagher Buttress area.


6 bolts to cold shuts with no chains.

Comments on The Lifus's Farm Tools Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 25, 2007

Arete routes are awesome and this is no exception. Staying on the arete proper makes for impressive position on this beauty. It's a tad run-out from the last bolt to the anchors, but the rock is sharper and quite secure. To the anchors I stayed on the arete and then reached left to clip em. Others move onto the face after the last bolt and went straight up. Both options go at the same grade. (But stay on the arete for maximum enjoyment.)
By slim
Apr 9, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Good route, but I thought the runout at the top kind of detracted from it. My partner and I both thought the crux was just below the anchor.
By Kirk Miller
From: Golden, CO
Apr 9, 2013

It's always fun to encounter the crux with the last bolt all but out of sight below....
Good example of a contrived runout detracting from an otherwise stellar climb.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
May 11, 2014

If you move left at the last bolt, it is very straightforward, and it doesn't feel runout or cruxy.
By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
Aug 11, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Amazing arete climbing! One of the best .10s at Shelf in my opinion. Heads up - the second bolt hanger has been mangled by a rock and is bent over pretty good. If anyone is planning on doing this route, maybe bring a hanger & wrench to replace it. Threads were rusted, so it could be a PITA & need a new bolt installed.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About