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The Library 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
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Page Views: 1,463
Submitted By: Ross Purnell on Jun 15, 2009

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The very obvious dihedral of The Library.

The Real Library Climbs Both Open Books 

Look for the large dihedral at the base of the cliff. The Library climbs the first dihedral then moves left into the upper "open book" just below the left side of Riverview Ledge. This second dihedral is one of the best features at Chickies Rock with slabby feet on the left, and spaced-out feet on the arete to the right. It is stemming magic with a continuous vertical crack at the back of the dihedral that takes solid gear, and a final horizontal crack to protect the crux roof moves at the top. Because of the traversing nature of this climb, most top-rope climbers miss the stem moves of the final dihedral, and instead finish with the large broken crack system called Snowflake.

Protection 

No fixed gear. Easy to set up top rope on Riverview Ledge. The Library is also a good beginner lead. Use small nuts in the corner.


Photos of The Library Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: main wall at Chickies
BETA PHOTO: main wall at Chickies
Rock Climbing Photo: The Library
BETA PHOTO: The Library

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By kenr
May 16, 2012

Very delicate move getting into the bottom of the lower dihedral / open book. I'd say at least 5.6. Maybe there's a 5.4 way to do it if work out exactly the correct holds in the right sequence On top-rope perhaps it doesn't matter, just put the climber on tension to get them thru it. But

Leading ... the idea that a starting 5.4 leader is going to figure out the sequence while scared is not a good bet. Note that at least one on-line guidebook says the pro is fairly tricky on this route, recommends against beginning leaders trying it.

I think the more frequently-done finish mentioned above (hand-traverse R at top of dihedral then up to the top, is called "Snow Flake". (The overhang at the top of the lower dihedral goes at no more than 5.6)
By Ross Purnell
From: Palmyra
Sep 2, 2017

KenR The step across into the dihedral is straightforward and protected by a perfect #1 red Camalot.
Definitely a 5.4 no harder. I've spent much of the summer spraying weedkiller and cleaning the crack at the back of the corner so the protection situation is better than ever. Instead of clumps of grass, you have a place for gear. This is the best beginner lead climb at Chickies. Witches Brew is a grade easier but the loose rock section in the middle is horrible.

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