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The Library 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
Page Views: 1,399
Submitted By: Ross Purnell on Jun 15, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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The very obvious dihedral of The Library.


Look for the large dihedral at the base of the cliff. The Library climbs the first dihedral then continues through the second "open book" to the left. Because of the traversing natures of this climb (moving left to get into the second dihedral) most top-rope climbers just climb the first dihedral, step to the right and continue the large broken crack system to the ledge.


No fixed gear. Easy to set up top rope on Riverview Ledge. The Library is also a good beginner lead. Use small nuts in the corner.

Photos of The Library Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: main wall at Chickies
BETA PHOTO: main wall at Chickies
Rock Climbing Photo: The Library
BETA PHOTO: The Library

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By kenr
May 16, 2012

Very delicate move getting into the bottom of the lower dihedral / open book. I'd say at least 5.6. Maybe there's a 5.4 way to do it if work out exactly the correct holds in the right sequence On top-rope perhaps it doesn't matter, just put the climber on tension to get them thru it. But

Leading ... the idea that a starting 5.4 leader is going to figure out the sequence while scared is not a good bet. Note that at least one on-line guidebook says the pro is fairly tricky on this route, recommends against beginning leaders trying it.

I think the more frequently-done finish mentioned above (hand-traverse R at top of dihedral then up to the top, is called "Snow Flake". (The overhang at the top of the lower dihedral goes at no more than 5.6)

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