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The Leisure Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 280'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Troy Anderson and Tyler Phillips 03-23-08
New Route: Yes
Season: When its dry
Page Views: 2,640
Submitted By: Stevie Nacho on Mar 23, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Janie admiring the view from the top of the route,...


This route offers one long and clean slab pitch and one steeper pitch. Many old routes have been done on this wall, but this is the first to go directly up the guts of the storm mtn cliff.

PITCH ONE: Once the first bolt is located in the gully, follow ten bolts, pass a two bolt (sub anchor),then pass one more bolt to another bolted belay with black webbing. Expect runouts between easy climbing.

PITCH TWO: angle up and left past a painted and really hidden bolt (12' up from the belay), a fixed knifeblade, then climb under the triangle roof. Place some cams then climb up and left towards four bolts on the edge of an arete. After the bolts enjoy easy climbing up beautiful stopper cracks to a two bolt anchor. There is a mystery anchor at the rim of the top of the pitch. This may be for the ice route in the winter. The anchor for the Leisure route is up and right from this old anchor.


Walk up the gully to the left of the storm mtn falls. Look for a bolt about 20' up from the gully. To descend, rap a single rope into the void and walk the slab to get back to the second pitch anchor. From here, rap to the sub anchor, then down. If you bring two ropes, you can skip the sub anchor. TIE KNOTS IN THE END OF THE ROPE WHEN DROPPING THE FIRST RAPPEL


quickdraws, a few slings, one #3 camalot. One set of BD nuts or a few finger sized pieces, and helmets.
All belays are bolted.

Photos of The Leisure Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the gully you scramble up
BETA PHOTO: This is the gully you scramble up
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruxing at the very top!
Cruxing at the very top!
Rock Climbing Photo: Boissal and JG spot other, less worthy objectives.
Boissal and JG spot other, less worthy objectives.
Rock Climbing Photo: The stem, but possibly a look of worry?
The stem, but possibly a look of worry?
Rock Climbing Photo: A leisurely outing on a nice fall day.  Boissal an...
A leisurely outing on a nice fall day. Boissal an...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sir Richard stemming over the crux steep part of p...
Sir Richard stemming over the crux steep part of p...
Rock Climbing Photo: Durf showing how easy the climbing of the Leisure ...
Durf showing how easy the climbing of the Leisure ...
Rock Climbing Photo: This is a rough sketch of the Leisure route in fro...
BETA PHOTO: This is a rough sketch of the Leisure route in fro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Durf on the first pitch
Durf on the first pitch

Comments on The Leisure Route Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 2, 2016
By tenesmus
Mar 23, 2008

nice work.
By Bill Bones
Apr 21, 2008

Very cool route. I must say it was very Leisure. That Stevie Nacho sure knows how to find the good routes.
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Apr 30, 2008

The anchor on the top pitch needs larger rap rings. The rope pull would be much easier.
By Bill Bones
May 23, 2008

Its about time that someone in the great and mighty Wasatch see that there are great routes to be had off the beaten path. Wonderful gem and I hope it gains respect.
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
May 24, 2008

I'm really excited to see that people are enjoying this route. This line is really fun and exceptionally exciting.

Good Times,

The Nacho
By James Garrett
Nov 17, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Sorry Stevie...I really wanted to like this climb and expected to do so. It just didn't seem to be a 5.8 climb for 5.8 leaders like myself, I guess? I was coming off an injury, but I was seconding! What is with all the anchors all over the place up there? Nice climbing, though and nice movement. good find. 5.8R/almostX?
By Luke Douglas
Nov 18, 2008

Way to pay respect to the old school!
Stevie hates all people, including 5.8 leaders. Ask him he will tell ya himself.
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Nov 18, 2008

Luke, you hit it head on regarding my "vision" for this route. I wanted to keep it as old school as possible. Its great to climb easy terrain yet be concerned for your life. The only section of this route that could be dangerous is the easy 5.6 at the bottom. The Leisure route will keep people on their toes and possibly able them for adventures in the desert. A definate must do.

James, Thanks for your comment on this rad route. Please go back when you aren't coming back from an injury. From what climbing I've seen you do, leads me to believe you'll send easily and really enjoy it.

Cheers my friends,

The Nacho
Previously known as TDA
By cdec
From: SLC, UT
Jul 8, 2011

I climbed this for the second time today and it is really fun. I have to say that I am a bit confused by the way it was protected though. The first pitch is sparsely protected and certainly R which is fine. The climbing through the run-outs is easy enough.
What puzzles me is this. If the 1st pitch a nod to the old school, why is the second pitch is so well protected? 3 fixed pieces on easy ground before the roof, # 2 cam placement in the crack at the roof that you can still touch when clipping the first of the 4 bolts on the final bit to the chains. The 2 pitches couldn't be more opposite in how they were equipped.

This thing could be one of the BCC classics and getting a ton of traffic if, dare I say it, a bolt or two were added by the FA party. As it is now between the R rating and Mr. Garrett's comments this fantastic route isn't being climbed as much as it should and that's a shame.
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Jul 8, 2011

I bolted this route roped solo. I remember being concerned with the second pitch being hard to clean while on solo. I really didn't want to have the "touching the void" situation for anybody seconding this pitch including myself during the first ascent. Thats the reason for the protection placement on the second pitch. The second pitch travels diagonally so I protected it better for the seconding climber. The first pitch is super easy and straight so I protected it less. Fun route

By cdec
From: SLC, UT
Jul 23, 2011

Good point about the traverse. Thanks for the doing it.

Get out and climb this thing.
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Mar 26, 2012

I went back and added four bolts to the first pitch, moved a bolt up high, and added chain to two of the three belays. I feel this route is no longer "R" and is more of a "L" for Leisurely. Rap from the top and hit the middle webbing belay if you have one rope. Rap from the top to the first chain belay if you have two ropes. The only cam needed is a #3 camalot or equivalent. Really fun leisurely route.
By bus driver
Jul 8, 2015

Fun route. Find it up the gulley left of transformer. Very leisurely.
1 60 m rope = sketchy transition near the end of the rope
1 70 m rope = better
2 60 m ropes = leisurely slide to your pack right off the front

This would be a great route to climb naked while a wedding is going on at the amphitheater.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
May 5, 2016

Fun leisurely route with great views. With the added bolts the first pitch is now well protected. I only found two bolts above the second pitch crux (which I thought was no harder than first pitch crux) but there were plenty of cam placements. Steve you may want to update the route description with regards to current bolt counts.

With a 70m you can just barely make (tie good knots in ends) it from the top to the chain anchor 2/3rds of the way up the first pitch. With a 60 you'll need to do three raps and it may be difficult to get to the webbing anchor and I would recommend replacing the webbing before rapping there.
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
May 20, 2016

The original descent is to rap back to the second webbing anchor on one 60 meter rope. This requires an easy pendulum. From there, two raps to the ground.
Three raps total with a single 60 meter rope.
By Brent Barghahn
From: SLC, UT
Jun 6, 2016

An awesome cruise with mostly solid rock and big exposure for the grade! A single 2 or 4 camalot protects the crux stem, plus finger size cams if you'd like to avoid an exciting but easy runout to the top anchor. No runouts otherwise, "sport" protected with the added bolts.

It seems that this page would be better placed in the Static Wall area. The ice falls name and alpine label are misleading, hard to stumble upon. Accessable and worthy of more traffic from the masses!
By Thumer
From: SLC, UT
Oct 2, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route. The bolt count should probably be updated in the description. The first pitch had a 10 bolts plus, a 2 bolt sub anchor, and 2 bolts with slings to belay. On the second pitch I used a large nut and a #3 cam in the roof, and a #1 cam in the finger crack above a few more bolts.

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