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The Left Side 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Nick Taylor, Peter Peart
Page Views: 2,947
Submitted By: Lisa Montgomery on Jul 25, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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AR cranking through the Left Side. View from the ...


Excellent route. Climb through some thin face and pull out left under roof to main crack. Crack goes from fingers to OW. OW section is probably no harder than 5.9.


This pitch is located on the left side of the Split Pillar. Belay at anchor before bolt ladder on P3 (5.10b traverse pitch) of the Grand Wall. Climb route and belay at the top (you can rappel from here) or continue up Grinning Weasel about 15 ft. and make an exposed traverse right to gain belay at the top of the Split Pillar.


Single set small, medium nuts; single set .5" (green alien) to 4" cams (C4 #5 camalot). Optional extra .33" cam (black alien), 1" cam (#.75 camalot), 4" cam (C4 #5 camalot).

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By Evan Stevens
Jul 27, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Double up on the #4 camalots for sure, unless you like to run it out for a LONG ways. The OW is cheatable, so you don't really have to climb that style, but its more like 10- up there. This pitch used to be rated 11+, and is definitely soft for 12-, especially if you know how to jam!
By Ben Gilkison
Aug 14, 2015

Did this back in 2000 or so. At the base I looked up and decided to leave the #4 BD, cause I deemed it too heavy. After onsighting through the crux ( it being my first in the grade) I knew I couldn't back down. My 1992 guidebook said...easier after the crux.

When I clipped the anchor I was well over 50+ feet run out on my last #3 cam, which was fully tipped. I was visible shaking and my belayer was very unhappy. Had I come off towards the end of the OW, I would have definitely cratered into the slab below. Grim.
By Nate Mankovich
Jul 8, 2017

Good offset crack climbing practice. Goes from #.3-#.4 all the way up to baggy #4s (maybe tight #5s).

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