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The Left Side of Roark 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: J. Achey and B. Feiges, 1977.
Fixed Hardware: 5 Lead Pins [details]
Season: Faces S/SE.
Page Views: 124
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 14, 2007

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  • Description 

    A great crux on a so-so route. If all of the climbing were as good, it would be famous instead of obscure. This would be a hard start to Sidetrack, or an early bail-out off of Book Of Numbers. It shares most of its climbing with one or the other, but since it preceded Book Of Numbers by a decade, I suppose it has its own place. And since not everyone climbs 12c, perhaps it makes the bottom of the Book Of Numbers accessible.

    Locate a 2-meter section of right-facing dihedral that hangs perhaps 10 meters off of the ground. This is capped by a small roof on its right side.

    Climb up to the corner (5.8, S) and into the corner (good pro, a large stopper or 1.5" cam) and then do the crux to get up through the corner and past it (5.10). From the corner, angle up and left, following a general line of weakness past some of the funkiest holds in Eldo. Not bad, just funky. You have joined Sidetrack/Anthill DIrect. Continue past some museum-quality, antique, fixed pins and up and left to a 2-bolt belay/rap.

    To descend, rap to the top of the tower above 'The Contest' then rap that route.


    This route is obscure, but not hard to find. Just left of Genesis, about 1/2 way between Genesis and The Contest, a short section of dihedral hangs 10 meters up off of the ground. The route starts below this and climbs up through it, then left along a ramp system to join 'Sidetrack' and 'Anthill Direct.'


    Not a lot... The crux is reasonably protected by a large nut and a 1.5" cam if you doubt it down. Take a load of 2-foot slings and a few wide-hands to fist-sized pieces. Every now and then a fixed piece will pop up for good gear.

    Comments on The Left Side of Roark Add Comment
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    By Todd Ritter
    From: Lafayette
    Jul 9, 2009

    Good route, 10c PG13/R, somewhat obscure.

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