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Windward Wall
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Blender Head T 
Good Clean Fun S 
Lee Side, The T 
Storm Warning T 
Windward Passage, The T 

The Lee Side 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 165'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Karl Kiser & Noah Monagle, spring 2016
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 160
Submitted By: Karl Kiser on May 14, 2016

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Description 

P1: start in a clean left to right crack which joins a larger left facing weakness. Climb the weakness to a ledge, clip a bolt, continue up and traverse left (below a roof) to a ledge. Step up a bit more to a stance for the gear anchor (about 90 feet).

P2: continue up the crack but do Not go into the orange less good rock. Step right where a clean 1 inch crack joins clean easier face climbing. Continue right another 15 feet, clip a bolt, go up and later follow a thin crack rising to the right. Finish at a large tree on a huge ledge (about 75 feet). Be sure to have long runners on the traverse to minimize rope drag.

Down climb to Science Friction ledge and find a way to climb back out to the top of this wall (an established route or an easy romp on the left side).

Location 

The route is about 50 feet to the left of Blender Head in a left facing weakness below a roof. There is a large tree near the start of the climb. One must rap to the bottom of Science Friction Wall and again down Windward Wall.

Protection 

Standard Sandias rack to 2 inches; many alpine draws; one bolt on each pitch.


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