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Cockroach Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Classic Corner T 
Climb Of The Cockroaches T 
Fabulous T. Gordex Cracks, The T 
False Classic Corner (aka The Case Of The Missing Nolina) T 
Leatherhead Arete, The T 
R.S. Chicken Choker T 
Roach Roof T 

The Leatherhead Arete 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: (TR) Pat Nay, FL: Chris Miller, 1998
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 385
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2002

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This is the obvious line just left of Classic Corner which offers steep and continuous balance moves up an arete which is capped by a small roof. Well-protected with fun moves and a nice view of the surrounding desert. Gear belay and an easy walk-off from the top.


Just left of Classic Corner


4 bolts (3/8"), pro to 3" for anchors

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By C Miller
From: CA
Nov 5, 2003

Not to be confused with the more difficult and spectacular Skinhead Arete, this route was first toproped by Pat Nay et al. and called Jazzercise. Two or three out of five stars.
By Randy
Nov 5, 2003
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Maybe I was having a bad day when we did this, but I thought it seemed more like solid 11b. Much harder than Snap, Crackle & Pop and If 6 Where 9 on the nearby Creature Comforts Wall.
By Murf
Nov 5, 2003

Hey what's this Creature Comfort wall all about? 6 of this, 12 of that? Where's the beta?
By C Miller
From: CA
Nov 5, 2003

The Creature Comforts Wall is the backside of the wall with Classic Corner. It's a northwest-facing (towards the Lost Horse Road) wall with a number of cracks and face climbs. There may be a topo at Nomad. All FA's by George Armstrong et al., circa 1998
By Murf
Nov 10, 2003

I was unable to find the bolts on this route.. Chopped?
By Randy
Nov 10, 2003
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The bolts are very well camoflauged and not noticable until you are right on top of them.
By Murf
Nov 10, 2003

Wow - I must be blind, I can't believe I couldn't find the bolts. So help a blind man out, does it start directly on the arete, or does it start on the face slightly left of the arete on the shallow crack?
By Russ Walling
Oct 9, 2006

The bolts are so camo now that there is a bad epoxy job in the holes covering them up. This route is chopped and the chopper did not do a very good job on the coverup. Try harder crowbar guys.
By Murf
Jan 29, 2012

Still chopped, good route, more like feels like .11b on TR to me.

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