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The Leaning Wall
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A Brief Squall  T,S 
Classic Corner T 
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Leaning Corner, The T,S 
Leaning Crack, The T 
Leaning Face (AKA Backscratcher), The T,S 
Leaning Flake, The T,S 
Leaning Seam, The T 
Orange Corner, The T 
Slabby Steps T,S 

The Leaning Crack 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Drew Spaulding, 2002
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 411
Submitted By: Drew Spaulding on Jun 21, 2010

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Description 

The Leaning Crack is one of the best crack climbs in BV!

Start up the slab on the far right to gain the overhanging crack above. Tough, pumpy moves (10d) lead up into the quality hand crack corner (10a). This seems too classic of a line to not have been climbed in the past and I wouldn't doubt if it has.... But after cleaning obvious loose blocks and flakes from the crack, I've wondered....
Solid 5.11 if you are trying to jam the steep crack straight in... the are some gracious holds up to the right of the crack that make it more doable!

Protection 

Thin gear to 3". Chained anchors over the top.


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