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Above and Beyond Wall
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Ascent of a Man S 
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Do or Dive T 
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Horse's Mouth, The T 
Leak, The T 
Ooooh Crack! T 
Randy's Polka S 

The Leak 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Steve Habovstak, Randy Kielizewski, Eric Klement 1993
Page Views: 69
Submitted By: Craig Martin on Nov 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Above and Beyond Wall. Green line is The Leak. Yel...


This is the obvious, mostly bolted route right at the top of the approach trail. Look for the black streak going up a steep slab with a couple of roofs, the first bolt is 15 feet up but pretty easy to get to. Very fun climbing with a few hard moves at the first bolt and a crux pulling the second roof.


Mostly bolts. 5 bolts and a few small to medium camming devices or endure 20' runouts on easier terrain. 2 bolt anchor.

Photos of The Leak Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bob Grey on The Leak.  Really nice rock on this on...
Bob Grey on The Leak. Really nice rock on this on...

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By James Garrett
Nov 16, 2007

Hi Craig,
It could be The Leak, but that is in the book so you probably would have recognised it. Call Stevo for the ultimate beta on this area. He put up most of the routes up there.
By James Garrett
Nov 17, 2007

Yea, the way things are going, maybe we should stick to the ol' tried and true. Also thanks for the cool write up of < Or Equal To. It's been almost 20 years! since we did that, so you are the much better source for beta and gear. Pin scars? Really?
By Jared Hargrave
From: Salt Lake City, UT.
Jul 20, 2009

Not too sure about this, but it seems a bunch of ledges are no longer there at the bottom of this climb. We tried to get on it but couldn't get to the first bolt as there were no features whatsoever.

Looking at the pictures, it seems all of the blocks below the first roof are gone.

Please correct me if I'm wrong as this was my first time at Above and Beyond Wall... But I think this climb has gotten a lot harder with the loss of these boulders.
By tenesmus
Oct 28, 2013

Second on what Jared said about the rocks for that first piece of gear are all gone. This makes getting to the first bolt much, much harder and fully runout. Its probably easy .11 but I didn't have the guts to go that way, opting for the left entry at 5.8 RR a-la the Coffin. If you want to go direct, adding a bolt would be warranted.

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