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Fatty Bolger and Ferret's Folly
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The Leading Edge 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Will Dorling, Elise Hunt - 1996
Page Views: 44
Submitted By: Jon Stein on Sep 5, 2010

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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>


The crux is at the very top where you have a technical bulge to climb before reaching the anchor. I made it through the climb well until I got to this section and found it really hard. I would change the rating of the climb to an 11d due to the bulge move. I have yet to climb this through clean and don't plan on leading it any time soon!


This route is found off of Channel road just below Ferret's Folly crag. You find the start by looking just right of Fatty Bolger 11a to the obvious line of bolts going up the arete. The initial wall on the right of the arete has no climbing routes as another indication that your there. You can walk off this climb or be lowered back down.


6 bolts protect the entire route...there could be a few more if you ask me. Anchor is bolts at the top.

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By Jon Stein
From: North Vancouver, BC
Sep 5, 2010

I really enjoyed this as a TR. I am curious to see what others think about the grade. I feel it should be rated 11d with the hard bulge crux you have to climb over at the top to reach the anchor. Let me know your thoughts. Worthwhile climb if you love slab as much as me.

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