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The Super Dome
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The Last Unicorn 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: 1st Pitch: Dave Evans, Craig Fry, Randy Vogel, 1980. Pitch 2: Alan Bartlett, Dan Michael, April 1981
Page Views: 1,594
Submitted By: Randy on Apr 25, 2003  with updates from john durr

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DE on the FA during the "Acid Traverse."...


This route ascends the middle of the impressive south face of The Super Dome; taking the obvious line of weakness. Start just left of a left facing corner-block (Bleed Proof), behind a small oak tree. This route sports new 3/8 inch bolts and sporty climbing on both pitches. But for climbers solid at the grade, the line definitely beckons...


P1: Climb up about 25 feet to a bolt (a small sling on a horn can protect getting to bolt). Head back down a bit, then begin a long traverse left (10b or so, R) until you can climb up to a 2nd bolt. Above, climb the obvious shallow, right facing corner past 3 more bolts (some gear required too) to a large ledge and 2 bolt belay. It is possible to rappel from here (100++ feet) or make 2 shorter rappels down Warpath (5.12c) which lies on the face to the left.

P2: Probably less done than the 1st pitch. Head pretty much straight up past 2 bolts and a fixed pin on steep and somewhat loose face (10b/c R).

From summit, downclimb right, then make a short rappel off top of Lion's Share on The Super Block, then head back left to the base. Alternatively, downclimb left and scramble down then up back to base.


Pitch 1: 5 bolts, Thin to 1.5 inches. 2 bolt anchor/100 foot rappel.Pitch 2: 2 bolts, 1 fixed pin, To 2 inches.

All the original protection and belay bolts on this route have been replaced by ASCA. The pin on the second pitch is still there. The pin and bolt at first pitch belay were replaced with two bolts with rappel rings.

Photos of The Last Unicorn Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Last Unicorn
Last Unicorn
Rock Climbing Photo: Last Unicorn
BETA PHOTO: Last Unicorn

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By Randy
Dec 1, 2010

The topo (and description) in the guidebook (Joshua Tree West) is entirely accurate. If you are contemplating doing this route, you should consult the guidebook.

It is great that the bolts have been replaced, but it is still a heads-up lead.
By toddgordon Gordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Dec 1, 2010

This is all Dave Evans' fault....everyone knows this.......
By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
May 3, 2011

I hiked back in there probably 12-15 years ago, and even then my partner and I looked at the bolts and kind of turned away in digust, which is saying something given I had been raised running it on quarter inchers at Suicide, etc. Pity, since the route looks awesome.
By Daniel Ws
From: Fountain valley
Jul 29, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

Great climb ?

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