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The Lady Don't Mind 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Cyrena Goodrich, Eric Fazio-Rhicard 1989
Page Views: 177
Submitted By: Tomily ma on Mar 22, 2016

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Obvious trad climb in the area. You can even use y...

Description 

In case you forgot your rack was in your bag and you find yourself at New Wave Wall, this is a fun little bit of trad for you. It climbs the crack/seam to the right of Wavy Gravy before travesing left, joining up before the roof and sharing anchors. Thought provoking stems, mantles, and whatnot with good stances to place gear.

The crux for me was deciding when to traverse left: too early and it looks harder too late and you run out of good pro until the roof. I chose the latter straight up to the roof and enjoyed it. I then back cleaned the pro in the roof once I clipped the first bolt to avoid drag. You probably don't need to bother with that gear unless you have kids or traverse left earlier.

Location 

Not actually on New Wave Wall but on a separate formation to the climber's left when looking at NWW. Right of Wavy Gravy on the same formation.

Protection 

Standard rack. 1 very solid piton. Bolts after the traverse left. Anchors have rap rings.


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By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 22, 2016

Climber's left isn't it?

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