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Kudos Left
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ambushed in the Night T 
Duppy Conquer S 
Get out of I-ret S 
Kreutzer , The S,TR 
Kudos S 
Step into the Light S 

The Kreutzer  

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: First documented ascent by Chris Kreutzer, October 2015, with micro cams and petons
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 897
Submitted By: Chris Kreutzer on Oct 17, 2015

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First documented accent of The Kreutzer, October 2...

No overnight camping on PG&E property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The first few moves, getting off the ground, can be a little bouldery, but the real crux is found just after the second bolt. There are a number of good side pulls and a few juggier holds throughout the route that are not easily seen, but come in handy in some of the thinner sections. All bolts can be clipped from a good clipping stance and should be within a reasonably easy reach for some of the shorter leaders. This route shares the anchor bolts with Get Out of I-ret.

Location 

This route ascends the obvious blocky arête between Kudos Left and Kudos Right. Rappel using the bolted anchor on Get Out of I-ret.

Protection 

There are five bolts, all colored dark grey to blend in with the rock. All bolts should be easy to reach from a solid clipping stance, even for the shorter leaders.


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Rock Climbing Photo: The Kreutzer, climb the arete
The Kreutzer, climb the arete

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By Chris Kreutzer
Oct 24, 2015

Thanks Kaiser Sogay, the name was totally presumptuous and that is sort of why I did it. If you or anyone else knows of anyone who climbed this before myself and wants to claim the FA I would love to ask if bolting it is cool with them and what the real name is. Until then I say it gets my obnoxious last name stamped on it. I welcome anyone's comments, this rock is the communities resource and MP is easy to edit, bolts are not so easy, so speak up!
By John Robinson
From: Elk Grove, ca
Nov 2, 2015

Chris: Good that you put up this route. I like the name. When you spend the money and effort to put up a new route, you get to name it, even if you want to name it with your social security number. There has been no claim of an ascent herein or elsewhere so I say the route is fair game and an asset for the area. Just remember, much of the time when we put a new route up, there will usually be others on the sidelines that will complain.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 20, 2016

The FA accusations are out of line. It's easy to say it was done before, but it could just have easily been overlooked. Somebody putting up 5.11+ trad isn't necessarily interested in what was likely a moss-covered staircase.

My beef with the route is it's ho hum, a bit awkward, and the traversing nature requires you either have somebody follow to clean or that you clean the first couple draws of the anchors, then climb the 5.9 to the right and clean the rest (as we did). I just climbed it to check it out, probably wouldn't revisit it, but it could be a fun adventure for a budding leader.
By Brad J
Dec 4, 2016

Although this climb had been free soloed several times by Mike, Josh and crew no one minded that Chris took the initiative to bolt it and claim the first accent. However, it would be the ethical thing to add his belayer to the FA team. Her involvement was just as important to the final result as the leader.

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