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East Ridge
Routes Sorted
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Babyback T 
Edgemaster S 
Everpresent Lane T 
Exile S 
Fluorescent Gray T 
Fountain of Youth T,S 
Galactic Warrior T 
Haywire T 
Ilga Grimpeur S 
Iron Cross T,S 
Kent's Krack T,TR 
Knack, The T 
Lightning Bolt Arete T,S 
Slabmaster aka Stealth Bomber S 
Stealth Slab Downclimb T 
Superguide T 
Unity T 

The Knack 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Dan Hare, solo, 1981
Page Views: 107
Submitted By: Michael Walker on Oct 20, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Pinch point I was describing on "The Knack&qu...

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  • Description 

    As one descends the upper ridge from the top, the Dihedral area of the East Ridge grows in height and intensity. There are a few short pitches of moderate and mediocre quality near the top, but the quality improves greatly with The Knack, a crack climb that ascends the prominent dihedral between the second and third major aretes.

    Just to the right of a steep broken area and under the slightly overhanging second major arete, the Knack begins in a left-facing corner with an easy crack. Practice those stopper placements and gain a large ledge system. The crack continues steeply above and the crux is encountered where it "flip-flops" from left- to right-facing. It looks difficult from the ground but once upon the flip-flop, killer jams and lovely stopper placements ease your anxiety. Step out right onto a convenient pebble on the face and use nice finger jams to gain a sloping ledge. This is the best of the Knack. A #4 in the easy crack above will make the next couple of moves very safe, then head straight up the dihedral to the second crux, more finger jams, which are well protected with small stoppers.

    At the top, go right and rap from the two ring anchor for Fountain of Youth.


    SR to #4 Friend.

    Photos of The Knack Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pete getting 'the knack' of a sandbag 5.6 on The E...
    Pete getting 'the knack' of a sandbag 5.6 on The E...
    Rock Climbing Photo:

    Comments on The Knack Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Oct 4, 2004
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    This sandbag takes the title for "hardest 5.6 around" away from WonderLust at the Veil, in Eldo. Good climb though. 1* overall, or maybe 2*'s for this crag.
    By RomoFo Fo
    Oct 16, 2005

    A little hard for the grade, great views from the top.
    By Mark Griffin
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 22, 2008

    Anchor at the top of Fountain of Youth is in bad shape. See comments on the FoY page. Recommend finding a different way down.

    EDIT: Anchor replaced with new hardware thanks to Jason, Matt, ASCA and ARI.
    By Clint Locks
    From: Boulder
    Oct 25, 2008
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    There is a point low on the route (see photo) where our rope got pinched so badly that my partner had to build an anchor halfway up so we could free it. Consider placing a directional piece (BD#2 Camalot) out left upon reaching a lower ledge at ~25 feet so as to avoid the pinch point.(However, that technically made "The Knack" 2 pitches, thereby upping our pitch count for the day, and we all know how important that is).
    By Clint Locks
    From: Boulder
    Oct 25, 2008
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    I might also mention that a couple of holds at the upper crux have popped off, making this section of the climb MUCH harder than 5.6. Super-enjoyable, though, and great gear. Traverse at the top to the bolt anchors of Fountain to belay. Thanks to the ASCA for the new bolts!

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