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The Kings of Metal 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

Type:  Sport, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
Page Views: 428
Submitted By: yevquest on Jul 10, 2010

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Kings of Metal is a fantastic line right up the middle of Las Ventanas, climbing mostly tufas for the first half. The second half tackles very steep, blocky rock, ala the top half of the Path at Rifle. Like many routes at Rodellar, it has more than one anchor allowing one to stop before the roof for a fantastic 13a.

Start off a cool stalagmite and climb on mostly good tufas and jugs for a few bolts to a jug system and a good right kneebar. From here the climbing gets really good with big moves between tufas. Start with a right hand undercut and a thin, decent left hand tufa. Make a big move to a right hand tufa and throw in a right kneebar (a recurring theme on this route). More great tufa climbing leads up and left to an obvious undercut. From this move out right to good pinches and a right kneebar. The crux for the first pitch is above which involves moving off a flat hold to the black tufa and up to the big tufas. There's a few ways to do this but all lead to a fantastic kneebar in the underclings (no hands, either leg). Rest as long as your belayer will let you and then grab some pockets that are much better than you think. Lowering off the anchor here is 13a or continue onward. There's another double kneebar in the roof, then make a big move over the roof (left heel is handy) to some decent flat holds. Either make a big move or crimp your way out left to a good hold that's hard to shake on. Another long move and you're at the crux where you have to move from a good, small flake to a the obvious roof undercling/gaston. There's a crimp intermediate that may help. A few more moves and you're at the anchor.


In the middle of the main wall, climbing some obvious clean and well chalked tufas.



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