This is a new pitch starting off the Upper Ramp of Redgarden Wall, between upper Ruper
and The Serpent
. It goes to the 2-bolt anchor atop The Serpent's
First, approach the route by doing something that takes you to the Upper Ramp. For a similar grade, maybe check out Evangeline
(A0 through the roof above the 11a first pitch and do the spectacular 5.10+ 2nd pitch). Ruper
, Rosy Crucifixion
, Le Toit
, and many other routes can also bring you to the Upper Ramp. The Serpent
starts in a striking, left-facing, left-leaning dihedral. It quickly bust right out onto a hueco-ed face and climbs just above the leaning corner.
Start King Cobra 40 left and uphill of The Serpent
. Pull a low chossy roof into a small, LF corner, and then continue up the face via thin seams (5.8 R, small wires and RPs). About 50 up, join the major, LF dihedral (in which The Serpent
started). Stem up the steep corner (5.10) with good gear (0.5-2 cams). Pull over the lip of the dihedral, now more of a roof (crux), and join The Serpent
above its last bolt. Climb the last 10 of that route to a comfy ledge and 2 bolt anchor.
This is a fun pitch, worthy as a top-rope after leading P1 of The Serpent
(no directionals needed), or as a lead. We TR'ed first to check it out and do some cleaning, but the gear is definitely good enough to lead this ground up.
Standard rack up to #1 Camalot, with doubles from #0.4 to #0.75. RPs.