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The Kind 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Kyle Copeland, David Widden, Linus Platt
Page Views: 3,084
Submitted By: Andy Roberts on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Todd Gordon on The Kind.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


AKA: (The Other Kind) You access this climb by hiking down creek from Kane Springs. Park at the lower switch back and hike down the drainage. The hike is about .75 miles the route is on the obvious on the right wall, it's just right of another crack called Archaic Revival. This climb is an overlooked classic, the hike itself is worth it. The route starts on soft rock but it then goes to a bullet hard desert varnish right facing dihedral.


Double set of cams. One 200' rope

Photos of The Kind Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason Hodgeman on The Kind the Other Kind
Jason Hodgeman on The Kind the Other Kind
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing up the perfect varnished crack
Climbing up the perfect varnished crack

Comments on The Kind Add Comment
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By toddgordon Gordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Apr 29, 2007

We were fortunate to be turned on to this excellent climb by the first ascentionist himself, Kyle Copeland....May 1995. Kyle was in "classic" Kyle-like form; his house, he threw his climbing gear into his pack, and for lunch, he threw in (on top of the climbing gear), a pack of smokes and a couple of chocolate donuts (unwrapped and mixed in with the climbing gear...)......amazing individual! He took us up the beautiful maze-like twisting canyon, and took us right to this very attractive corner. I lead the climb and I found it excellent and wonderful. In my notes , I have it as 5.10b. We also did a climb to it's left called Archaic Revival (5.11-) where you climb up a large log to get to a crack system!......we had a fantastic day; I have had many fantastic days and adventures with Kyle;....he's a really good guy and has been a very good friend to me. Our group that day was Kyle, Margie Floyd, Dave Evans, Dana Adler, Greg Epperson, Cyndie Bransford, and myself. If you haven't done this climb; go do's a beautiful climb in a wonderful secluded magical place, and the climb eats up's very striking, and easy to find, even without Kyle as a guide!
By Greg D
From: Here
Apr 7, 2008

We hiked to this route on a rest day. I'm sure we found it as well as Archaic Revival. But, I'm confused by the photo. Both routes are right facing dihedrals. Yet, your photo shows a left facing dihedral. Did the photo get inverted somehow?

If there is water in the creek just plan on getting wet and stay in the creek for the entire approach as we did. It is a much better option than bushwhacking.

Sad to see so much broken glass at the route.
By toddgordon Gordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Apr 7, 2008

Sorry, but I did invert this photo;.......I tried to switch it correctly, but was unsuccessful;.....sorry;......thanks for correcting this information;'s difficult to remember all these climbs and which way they face.......
By joshes
Feb 20, 2011

a new "better" way is parking just past amasa back trail head at the birthing stone(big boulder with pictographs). go past the rock to the edge of the canyon, there is a diving board with repel anchors. zippidy do da down and and head back upstream just around the corner and there it is. no crazy swampin approach, unless your into that. hike out downstream and up the amasa back trail.
By John Parnigoni
From: Golden, CO
Apr 1, 2012

The two routes here get morning and afternooon sun.
By grk10vq
Feb 22, 2013

tg- i flipped your photo, hope you don't mind? it sounds like you had tried?

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