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The Kentucky Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blowing Your Lobe T 
Bouldering Sucks T 
Coping Mechanism T 
Corn Syrup and Weed T 
Dustin Stevenzes Route T 
Lampwright's Street T 
Macie's Pinnacle--Standard Route  T 
Old Men T 
Ole Switcharoo, The T 
Pleasant Disappointment  T 
Polar Opposites  T 
Shake-N-Flake T 
Shell Shocked T 
Spider Sanction T 
Squirrel Nut Zipper T 
Stay Tight T 
Up Yonder T 
Whats Left of Kyle T 

The Kentucky Wall Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.89425, -83.65755 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,555
Administrators: Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: lhrowland on May 26, 2015
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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not sure which route this was, around the corner l...


This is a new backwoods trad crag in the Lower Gorge, located near Dip Wall. There are currently 16 routes ranging from 5.4-5.11, and there are plenty more lines yet to go in. It is pretty remote and the trail isn't great, so if you don't like adventure this isn't the place for you.

Getting There 

Park and begin begin the approach the same as Dip Wall, only do not turn right up the hill from the logging road. Continue on the logging road where you will cross a ditch and skirt around some down fall. The logging road will veer right and begin going up the hill, from here follow this road(it is a bit overgrown)until it splits, then take the road that leads you down into the drainage(left). Where the road meets the drainage, cross the creek and sidehill your way up into an adjacent drainage. At the top of this you will run into a limestone cave. Skirt around the cave to the left(or go through it) and work you way uphill and to the right. You are super close! Find another logging road that sits on the hill above the cave and walk east on it. At any point from here you can bush whack up to the wall. But if your Indian tracking skills are up to snuff, youll find a faint trail lead left from the logging road. This trail will lead you to a boulder that sits away from the wall. Go left at the boulder for 100ft then turn right at any point and walk to the wall. You should come out near "Squirrel Nut Zipper", there are routes both right and left of this point. Remember, adventures are fun!

Climbing Season

For the Red River Gorge area.

Weather station 3.9 miles from here

18 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Kentucky Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Kentucky Wall:
Squirrel Nut Zipper   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   
Coping Mechanism   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 80'   
Stay Tight   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 90'   
Polar Opposites    5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Kentucky Wall

Featured Route For The Kentucky Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: The stellar top half of Stay Tight.
 Photo: Brian ...

Stay Tight 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  Kentucky : Red River Gorge : The Kentucky Wall
Classic! Start up the off fingers crack to a bulge with two cracks in it. Climb up and place high, then get it together. Launch into crimpy, balancey climbing up and over the bulge. Pull into the bomber, but hard to protect flake and climb up to a ledge. Move a few feet right and launch into the perfect finger to hands crack.[more]   Browse More Classics in Kentucky

Photos of The Kentucky Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: whats left of kyle
whats left of kyle

Comments on The Kentucky Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By lhrowland
From: Frankfort, Ky
May 8, 2017
This map has the Kentucky Wall routes on it, as well as many more backwoods trad climbs in the Red.
By travispowell
Jun 28, 2017
If you're looking for great trad routes and adventure, look no further than Kentucky Wall. If you're really feeling adventurous and want to sample some of the best trad routes the red has to offer, follow lhrowland's link.

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