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The Kentucky Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blowing Your Lobe T 
Bouldering Sucks T 
Coping Mechanism T 
Corn Syrup and Weed T 
Dustin Stevenzes Route T 
Lampwright's Street T 
Macie's Pinnacle--Standard Route  T 
Old Men T 
Ole Switcharoo, The T 
Pleasant Disappointment  T 
Polar Opposites  T 
Shake-N-Flake T 
Shell Shocked T 
Spider Sanction T 
Squirrel Nut Zipper T 
Stay Tight T 
Up Yonder T 
Whats Left of Kyle T 

The Kentucky Wall Rock Climbing 

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Location: 37.89425, -83.65755 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,751
Administrators: Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: lhrowland on May 26, 2015
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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not sure which route this was, around the corner l...


This is a new backwoods trad crag in the Lower Gorge, located near Dip Wall. There are currently 16 routes ranging from 5.4-5.11, and there are plenty more lines yet to go in. It is pretty remote and the trail isn't great, so if you don't like adventure this isn't the place for you.

Getting There 

Park and begin begin the approach the same as Dip Wall, only do not turn right up the hill from the logging road. Continue on the logging road where you will cross a ditch and skirt around some down fall. The logging road will veer right and begin going up the hill, from here follow this road(it is a bit overgrown)until it splits, then take the road that leads you down into the drainage(left). Where the road meets the drainage, cross the creek and sidehill your way up into an adjacent drainage. At the top of this you will run into a limestone cave. Skirt around the cave to the left(or go through it) and work you way uphill and to the right. You are super close! Find another logging road that sits on the hill above the cave and walk east on it. At any point from here you can bush whack up to the wall. But if your Indian tracking skills are up to snuff, youll find a faint trail lead left from the logging road. This trail will lead you to a boulder that sits away from the wall. Go left at the boulder for 100ft then turn right at any point and walk to the wall. You should come out near "Squirrel Nut Zipper", there are routes both right and left of this point. Remember, adventures are fun!

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.9 miles from here

18 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',1]

Featured Route For The Kentucky Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: low roof crux

Polar Opposites 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  Kentucky : Red River Gorge : The Kentucky Wall
Start underneath a large roof and scramble to the top of the boulder on the right. Reach out and get some gear into the roof crack. Get ready for battle as you pull into and around the roof. Once established above the roof, cruise on great holds and good movement to a ledge. Catch your breathe and tackle the final roof to a short lay back to the chains....[more]   Browse More Classics in Kentucky

Photos of The Kentucky Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: whats left of kyle
whats left of kyle

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By lhrowland
From: Frankfort, Ky
May 8, 2017
This map has the Kentucky Wall routes on it, as well as many more backwoods trad climbs in the Red.

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