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The King Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Wack and Dangle Job T 
Chronic Fixation S 
Elusive Dream (pitch 1 only) T 
Four Guns Blazing S 
Keep, The T 
Kingdom Come S 
Prince, The T 
Wall Ruler-King and I (linkup) T 
Working Wives S,TR 

The Keep 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jim Lawyer, Don Mellor August 2008
Page Views: 165
Submitted By: Jon Clark on Sep 17, 2016

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Description 

A great pitch on good rock that starts from a ledge halfway up The King Wall. It is well worth climbing the scrappy Wall Ruler to access this route. While you're up there climbing The King and I is also recommended.

Step left from the anchor and continue (left) for another 15 feet or so. Climb up to a small right facing flake then back right to the first bolt. Climb the pocketed, dimpled face past two more bolts to a sloping ledge. Crank up into the open book to a delicate stance. Very thin face climbing past two bolts leads to a good hold and eventually another ledge. Work into the scoop, mantel onto the lower angle slab and then climb to the trees.

One double 60m rappel to the shared anchor with The King and I. One more double 60m rappel to the ground.

Location 

Left of The King and I. First climb Wall Ruler then the first pitch of The King and I.

Protection 

8 bolts, a couple of finger sized cams to 1.25", RPs (optional)


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