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4. Shadow Castle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barbican TR 
Cleft Bastion TR 
East Bastion TR 
Keep, The T,TR 
Leaking Fissure TR 
Moat, The T,TR 
Portcullis TR 

The Keep 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: TR Ken Roberts + Jon Crefeld 2015, Lead Karel Hrbacek + Ken Roberts 2015
Page Views: 82
Submitted By: kenr on Jan 1, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Shadow Castle sector: A - Cleft Bastion B - Portc...


Variety of interesting moves leading up to a high rock feature.

Start left from below the right-facing flake which is just left of a tree with a four-inch base and two-inch trunk. Up a short slab, then up the flake passing the tree. Step right across a chimney onto the front of a four-foot wide block. Next up to the top of the block between the chimney and the Moat gully. Pass to the right of the higher right roof, then make a big step across left. Finish up to the top of the "guard tower".

Warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).


A ways left of the obvious gully at the right end of the Shadow Castle wall, below a long roof with a higher shorter roof above right of it, which is under the high "guard tower".


Top-Roping: see directions for top anchor for Shadow Castle area.

Leading: The upper (crux) section protects well with standard trad rack.
Protection for trad Leading of the lower section is unknown (because the FA lead was done from starting with the Moat gully).

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