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The Kachina Spires

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Beyond the 80th Meridian T 
Kachina Tower North T 
Kachina Tower South T 

The Kachina Spires Rock Climbing 

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Submitted By: Brad Brandewie on Dec 21, 2008
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Morning light on the South and North Towers.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


The Kachina Spires stand proudly over the upper reaches of Hell Roaring Canyon. Though relatively easy to approach, these towers feel remote and offer an unrefined climbing experience. They’re perched atop a soaring fin that juts into the canyon from it’s southern edge and are obvious from the parking area.

To get down to the bottom hike clockwise around the first small arm of the canyon, passing a fence and keeping on slickrock as much as possible. There is a way to get down without fixing a rope but it involves crawling along a ledge system. We didn’t see these ledges so we fixed a rope for a 30 foot section of cliff and used it to batman down and up.

Once you reach the canyon floor, it’s worth taking an extra 15 minutes to check out the Barrier Canyon Style pictographs left by the Native Americans of the area. They’re located in a large alcove across from the spires and slightly down canyon.

This area went untouched by climbers until 1999 when Paul Ross and Paul Gardner bagged the North Tower. The following year Smith Maddrey and Wells Cambell climbed the South Tower from the opposite side of the fin calling their route Beyond the 80th Meridian. Regardless of which route you climb, you are likely to be the only ones in the canyon.

Getting There 

Use the Spring Canyon Bottom Road Approach as described on the main Hell Roaring Canyon page.

Climbing Season

For the Moab Area area.

Weather station 11.5 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Kachina Spires

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Kachina Spires:
Kachina Tower South   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0     Trad, Aid, 5 pitches   
Kachina Tower North   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1     Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 100'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Kachina Spires

Featured Route For The Kachina Spires
Rock Climbing Photo: The entertaining approach into Hell Roaring Canyon...

Kachina Tower South 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0  Utah : Moab Area : ... : The Kachina Spires
First... Bjornstad's description is backwards in Desert Rock IV regarding the north and south towers. This route is listed as "Kachina Tower North," in his guide.This seemingly minor detail cost me many hours of route finding! I also made the mistake of thinking the topo for "Beyond the 80th Meridian" belonged to this route. After aiding half-way up a loose crack right of the 80th Meridian route... the epiphany came! - this route does not start at the base of the tower!From the descent into H...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of The Kachina Spires Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hiking in. (photo Jay Miller)
Hiking in. (photo Jay Miller)
Rock Climbing Photo: The silhouettes of the Kachina Spires.
The silhouettes of the Kachina Spires.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben Kiessel enjoying the view of the Kachina Spire...
Ben Kiessel enjoying the view of the Kachina Spire...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Kachina Spires from the canyon bottom. April 2...
The Kachina Spires from the canyon bottom. April 2...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kachina Towers
BETA PHOTO: Kachina Towers
Rock Climbing Photo: Ross and Gardner on the FA of the South Kachina To...
Ross and Gardner on the FA of the South Kachina To...
Rock Climbing Photo: Camp on the rim near the Kachinas
Camp on the rim near the Kachinas
Rock Climbing Photo: The North Tower as seen from the South Tower.
The North Tower as seen from the South Tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: The South Tower as seen from the North Tower.
The South Tower as seen from the North Tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: The slope in the foreground on the left is where w...
BETA PHOTO: The slope in the foreground on the left is where w...

Comments on The Kachina Spires Add Comment
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From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Mar 12, 2012
Correction on first ascents. The South Tower was first ascented by a route first up to the back ridge (via 5 pitches) then the final Tower section by Paul Ross and Paul Gardner (16th Oct 1999).The Route mentioned "Beyond the 80th Meridian" up the South tower came later as alternative pitches... and finished up the tower section of the Ross/Gardner route. The North Tower was first ascented by Paul and Andy Ross ( 1st May 2000)
By A. Roberts
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 30, 2014
Here are a few tips for the easiest way to get up both towers, starting with the South tower route. Hike around the west side of the towers leaving your packs at a large boulder to the west of the notch between the towers, on your way to the slabs/drainage, up and to the right. For the 1st "pitch" getting up to the ridge, stay to the right and you are able to friction up a 30 foot slab without roping up, then head back to the left to find the 1st decent looking crack leading up. Rope up here for a 40' 5.6? crack. you can either head a bit right to find a tree, or get a single 3.5 camalot on top of the ledge. From here coil the rope and head left again, finding a final 20' section 5.5? to gain the ridge. Start hiking left (North) toward the towers. Once close to the tower you will need to drop down to the left (west) to follow a bench around to the short offwidth pitch. We ended up combining the offwidth pitch and the bolt ladder/summit pitch. when at the last bolt on this pitch you either need to do a committing mantle move (w rope drag) or place a yellow metolious just above in a horizontal. To get off the S Tower the anchor seems to be set up to rap back to the South. Rap down to the ledge above the offwidth section and drop down to the east.(other side from the start of the offwidth pitch) Pull the ropes and walk the shelf around to the North. Do a short rap to the anchors in the notch between the towers. Do the step across move and follow the 2 bolts up to the single bolt anchor. Walk around to the Northwest corner of the N tower and follow the bolts/gear/ and mandatory free climbing (the rock was surprisingly good)to the top. Reverse things to get back to the notch anchor. Do a double rope rappel down west, to the slabs below. Walk back to the South to get to easier ground, and to retrieve your packs. For gear take draws, runners, a single set of cams to a #4 camalot (we used the 3.5, 3 times), and a few nuts to make use of the hangerless bolts on the N Tower. This make for an easy, fun 2 tower day.

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