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Juvenile Photo by Luke Ross
A climb that will have you doin' time!
The premier 5.12a in Spearfish Canyon! If you have burned through your share of 5.11's and are wondering if you have what it takes to run with the big dogs of the big house then get your punk ass over to the Court House Wall and get on this tasty mono-festive bad boy that will either set you off or shut you down!
A hard start followed by more hard climbing involving laybacks, underclings, crack technique and hidden holds will have you realizing that crime doesn't pay, but a lot of time over the winter on a hangboard just might.
This climb will make you want to get serious about this sport. Your slap on the wrist time for misdemeanor shop lifting is over, if your wanting to send this this 5.12a it's time to start thinking about some grand larceny!
Location: Look for a steep, very dark black streak in the middle of the wall.
HINT! To the immediate left of Badgering the Witness (the climb with the boulder and railroad tie in front of it) is a 5.11c with a crack start. And to the immediate left of that crack start (down the hill a bit) is a line of bolts that starts in blonde rock. This climb with the blonde start is a 5.12b known as The Bailiff. Look just to the left of the bolts in the blonde for the thin, black streak, known as Juvenile, a climb with a life (changing) sentence.
8 bolts and closed shut anchors on chains with some nice carabiners for you to clip into. Stick clipping the second bolt is highly recommended for the fresh fish. The start of this climb makes you feel like you have a ball and chain attached to your ankle. Falling before reaching the first or second bolt is extremely likely!
My rope after hanging The Juvenile. To the left of...
Juvenile follows a nice, black streak up the Court...
Careful! This is one bad kid!
Jul 5, 2016
Good route on great rock. What's with the absurd bolting? The first bolt is too low to do any good, and the second bolt is so high you will deck blowing crux moves. If the route is meant to be stick-clipped (I stick-clipped the second bolt so my partner doesn't have to scrape me off the ground after I fall), don't place the first bolt at all. Otherwise, bolt routes so the crux moves are protected. Check out the bolting on Two Kings and a Queen at Ice Box wall. That is a well-bolted route.
Jul 5, 2016
The absurd bolting is for those awesome climbers who have done the route a lot and can handle the absurd bolting. Stick clipping the second is common practice in these parts, especially on routes like this one, don't feel ashamed for doing so.