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The Juice 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Rolofson, 1994
Page Views: 2,732
Submitted By: Walt Wehner on Dec 2, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Dan Levison pulling the roof on The Juice. Photo ...

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  • Description 

    This route is 15 feet right of Plan B, and is another guaranteed super-classic. Climb 40 feet of tricky 5.11 to a nice no-hands rest, then begin the business. The route stays continuously difficult for another 35 feet through a capping roof, though the crux is noticeably harder than the rest of the route (and REALLY hard for shorter people). If you're really tall (like, over 6 foot by at least a few inches), the crux will come statically and relatively easily. For everyone else (myself included), it's a little bit dynamic and definitely super-reachy. A fantastic route.


    12 QDs or so for the 10 protection bolts. Double bolt anchor.

    Photos of The Juice Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ted about to latch the finishing jug.
    Ted about to latch the finishing jug.

    Comments on The Juice Add Comment
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    By ChanVan Schaack
    Jan 31, 2011
    rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

    Got on this for the first time the other day- climbs way better than it looks from below- lots of long moves between positive crimps. The quality is diminished by the fact that it shares a rest with Hot Flyer to the right (and possibly another hold?).
    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    Dec 3, 2012

    This route is flippin' hard. I have heard by many that the route has a height-dependent crux and many people do it dynamically. I am only 5'7" and could do the move entirely static by using very high feet and opposing sidepulls. This route seemed every bit of 5.13 to me. The feet were very tricky in a lot of spots, beta was a bit tricky to figure out at the crux (especially if your short), and the final pull over the lip requires some juice, hence where the route probably gets its name. Great route, though!!!
    By Mark Rolofson
    Mar 5, 2014
    rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

    I established "The Juice" in August 1994. I redpointed it 7 times over the next 2 years. My best day of climbing at this crag was redpointing The Juice, Plan B, Hot Flyer & Just A Little Insecure all on the same day. A great workout!
    The Juice has 10 bolts / 2 bolt anchor. The crux is definitely height-dependent. This is why I rated it 5.12d/13a in my guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume I".

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