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Joy of My World (is in Zion), The S 

The Joy of My World (is in Zion) 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Josh Pollock, Steve Grigel, and Adam Huxley, October 2014
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 810
Submitted By: Josh on Mar 28, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: A better photo of the start of the route. Draws a...

Description 

This is a fun slab/face with a prominent overhang at 1/3 height. Ironically, the crux is getting up into the underclings BELOW the overhang after the second bolt. From there, the roof moves are steep and juggy and good fun. The difficulties progressively ease off above.

Location 

Find the bolt line in the middle of the Third Triangle.

To access this from above, scramble past the overhanging summit cap of the Third Triangle on its west side, and make an exposed sneak around to the front side. There is a rappel anchor just out of sight that you can clip before making the exposed step around to the ledge on the front side. The anchor for the climb is at the lip of the ledge.

Protection 

8 bolts + 2-bolt anchor. There is a 2-bolt anchor for the belayer at the base of the route, on the underside of the large block to the left.


Photos of The Joy of My World (is in Zion) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The upper portion of the pitch.
BETA PHOTO: The upper portion of the pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: The route.  The first two bolts are visible if you...
BETA PHOTO: The route. The first two bolts are visible if you...

Comments on The Joy of My World (is in Zion) Add Comment
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By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
May 3, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This is a fun route, and I agree that the crux is above the second bolt. When you reach the undercling, the feet have no good holds to move up on. It is just smears. Above, the holds are jugs. If anyone ever has a brush, there is lots of flakey, loose lichen on the climb. This route is worthwhile!
By Josh
From: Golden, CO
May 20, 2015

In the spring of 2015, the upper half of this route had sustained beer bottles thrown from the summit of Mt. Zion, so some of the holds had shards of glass resting on them. This is an unfortunate hazard of being just below the high point of the trail above. Hopefully the recent heavy rains have taken care of some of this issue. The other routes on the Upper Tier are less likely to receive the same bombardment....
By Doug Redosh
From: Golden, CO
Aug 11, 2015

No glass shards as of 4 days ago, but my partner was cleaning the corner to the L and got a shard in his finger.
Fun climb, with a pumpy crux. Harder than Undisclosed Location.
By Ethan Little
From: Longmont, CO
Apr 23, 2016

As of 4/22/16, there isn't a 2 bolt anchor at the top of Joy of My World. Looks like they've been removed, maybe due to concerns about the structural integrity of the block they were in?
By Justin Peacock
From: Denver/Los Angeles
Apr 27, 2016

+1. There are no anchors! We were going to climb this route out to finish our day and were surprised to find no anchors. Shenanigans ensued to deal with the situation. Would it not be prudent to put a hang tag on the first bolt with a heads up? Not everyone reads the description on this site with a fine tooth comb to notice the "currently removed" detail. We just saw the line and thought it looked fun. No anchors creates kind of a dangerous and tricky situation to be surprised with. In 20 years of climbing, this is the first time I've climbed a bolted sport climb only to find nothing at the top.

It seems anchor bolts could be put right on top of the slab rather than the rock above (don't do the final mantel to the top flat area).

As for the route, it's fun. The crux felt harder than 9+ for me and my partner who are both short. A taller person could reach the crack under the roof from a stance with decent feet. We both had to pull a couple of tough slab moves on horrible smears and crimps to gun for the roof. I'd say 2 solid moves of 10+. Or maybe I just need to extend my reach....
By Josh
From: Golden, CO
Apr 27, 2016

UPDATE: the anchor for this climb is now restored. It has been moved to the lip of the ledge on top and should be easier to use than the original. There is a separate rappel anchor above the ledge that can be clipped from the side before making the exposed step onto the ledge, if you are accessing this spot from above.

I do not know who stole the original anchor off this route, but it is concerning. There were several other anchors on the Upper Tier that had pieces of chain and quicklinks removed around the same time (but fortunately no others where the bolts themselves were taken). If there is someone out there with concerns about the fixed hardware at the Upper Tier or any other reason for having messed with the anchors here, please speak up so the community can address your issues, but don't leave an unsafe situation for another climber. PM me if you want.

I'm sorry you ran into a potentially unsafe surprise, Ethan and Justin. Things should be restored now.
By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Aug 8, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Good route; thx Josh. Both pairs of anchors at the top are good. I give it a 5.9L, for lichen which is still abundant and adds significant difficulty seeing and using footholds. I'll take a brush next time, and it should be a solid 5.9 when it cleans up.

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