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The Joker 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: F.A. Alan Nelson & Richard Wright, 7/95
Page Views: 2,062
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 1, 2001

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The Joker.

Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>


This route starts about 10 feet to the left of the leaning tree on the main wall. It follows the slab up to an overhanging dihedral and then to some more straightforward climbing to the anchors.


Quickdraws. 7 bolts & a 2 bolt anchor.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 14, 2017
By Bill Wright
Jul 16, 2002

This is fun, varied route with a brutal and deceiving opening sequence. Above that is a weird flare that feels very awkward and insecure. Finally, it finishes with burly lieback moves.
By richard magill
Aug 21, 2002

Did this route again last night and I have to say this is a pretty great line for a 6 bolt 11b. It overhangs the whole way and stays in your face with slippery feet and hidden holds - it couldn't be much better. I think it is one of the better middle 11 sport routes in all of Boulder Canyon.
By Anonymous Coward
May 14, 2004

People tend to get shutdown on this route. Having a hair-raising and pumping experience on the onsight, I agree that this route is quality and fun. Having watched most climbers get shutdown hard, I understand why some do not regard it so highly. Relax, have fun, and pull hard - this route is cool.
By Bob Rotert
May 1, 2008

Funny to see Elanor getting an 11+ rating and this route 11b on this site. I would agree with the 11 rating for this route. It actually feels harder than Elanor to me. From what I've seen with other folks climbing it, I bet Elanor gets onsighted more than this route. My point being Elanor at 11+ is probably quite over rated. The ratings in Bolter Canyon sure are wacky... But then BC is its own world.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 1, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I think it is because Elanor one is more sustained and people burn out. I felt more pressed on that one. I suppose The Joker could be more technical, but doesn't punch as hard at the top....
By Brian Adzima
From: San Francisco
Jul 16, 2008

Not very similar Elanor, there is a sit down rest 1/2 way, although it feels rather obscene.
By OkieGirl
From: Boulder finally
Aug 10, 2008

The opening moves are kind of reachy and the landing is not great and if you're short like me (5'4"), it's hard to hang the first draw from a safe stance. If the draw is already hung, clipping the rope is possible.
Luckily, some nice boys let me use their stick clip pole thingy.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jun 1, 2011

Polished and Grovelly(sp?), with a necessary tree encounter at the top. There are more worthy warmups at Easter Rock.
By Glen Charnoski
From: Boulder, CO
May 26, 2015
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Warm-up? Who on earth would warm-up on this one? Right from the get go, you have to reach high off a sketchy block to clip the first bolt, then crimp like hell off opposing side-pulls, grovel your feet left, pull hard and throw to a rounded bump with the right hand, then reach way out left, and continue on insecure verticalness to the top. My partner and I were quite pumped after this 2nd route of the day and felt ready to just go home (but we stayed to flail on more routes). Eleanor was more sustained for sure, but this had a more technical, insecure, and just plain weird start.
By Josiah Cooper
From: Lenexa, KS
Aug 27, 2015
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

Definitely a low crux on this one and very technical, which doubtless lends heavy credence to its name! Be sure you have a good belayer, as a fall after the first bolt could mean a deck on the block. Very sustained movement afterwards, and largely a mental game! Breathe easy and finish strong!
By mc kaiser
From: Boulder, CO
May 13, 2017

I climbed this yesterday and changed the route forever. On the last lieback section I reached for a jug before a large ledge, and upon grabbing it, heard a faint creaking, and suddenly began to fall backwards with a large 6 x 4ish flake in my hands. Fortunately, I'm pretty large, and my belayer (thinking quickly) hopped up while my fall pulled him up and safely away from the rock fall zone. I only came away with a bruised leg and chest, and my partner was unscathed.
The scary part about this is that the flake looked totally solid and is very clearly the way the route went. It's now probably a letter grade or two harder. No bolts appear to have been impacted. Wear a helmet! Even if it's 'just' sport climbing.
By Brady Robinson
May 13, 2017

The rockfall event referenced by mc kaiser was major - there was debris visible all around the base of the route today. The trail itself was damaged by the impact. It is miraculous that no one was injured, it easily could have killed the belayer. We did not climb the route but found a few large rocks around the base with chalk on them, so we knew a part of a route and fallen off.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
May 14, 2017

So 6x4 meaning 6 feet by 4 feet? Wow! I know that the top of that route was always a little unconsolidated but yikes!

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