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The Jitters 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 146
Submitted By: Mark Tarrant on Jan 13, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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So near and yet so far - Mark setting up the crux.

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  • Description 

    Start about 50' up the gully from The Buzz, just right of a dark chimney. Lots of bolts but not as cushy as it looks. The first bolt allows you to safely clip the second and then pull through a crimpy boulder problem (.12b-ish). Another crux comes at the fourth bolt and then several more small, continuous moves take you past the steep stuff and onto a sloping ramp and a rest. A tricky move on a triangular face leads to a bulge with one more 5.11 move and then the anchor. Some useful beta: Bolts #5 and #6 get clipped from holds above the bolts so you're pulling up very little rope.

    As with other routes in this alcove, it's deceptively steep.The route climbs much better than it looks--feeling longer than it is. Fun and sustained on a medley of holds.


    11 bolts plus 2-bolt anchor, 80'.

    Photos of The Jitters Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mark on the tips and in balance...
    Mark on the tips and in balance...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The only real rest on Jitters comes at the ramp.
    The only real rest on Jitters comes at the ramp.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mark setting up the opener - harder than it looks.
    Mark setting up the opener - harder than it looks.

    Comments on The Jitters Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Joe Collins
    Jun 9, 2006

    Beta: Skip the 6th bolt and pull straight onto the slab above the 5th bolt. The 6th bolt is poorly located and guides you on a contrived yet harder sequence pulling onto the slab out left. Now that the route has been extended out the bulge at the finish, bring a couple of long draws as well.
    By Rui Ferreira
    From: Longmont, CO
    Oct 19, 2016

    There is a more pleasant and easier variation at the start coming in from the left side face and getting established on route at the third bolt. Pre-clip bolts 1 and 2 before starting.

    The overall rating does not change, as the technical crux is after the 5th bolt.

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