REI Community
(o) Right of the Escalator
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Axe of God T 
B.S. Arch T 
Breeze, The T 
Bullocks T 
Flatman Chimney T 
Free Lance T 
Hair Lip T 
Hair Pie T 
Hot Buttered Rump T 
Jackal, The T 
Mad Dogs and Edgingmen T 
Philocetes' Bow T 
Poppycock Arch T 
Shadow, The T 

The Jackal 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Marty Kaeser, Phil Warrender, Jon Lonnie, and T. Emerson, November 1971
Page Views: 61
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 2, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


This is a poor quality, commiting climb up a groove. It is difficult to let go and place protection in the thin crack. This route is just a few feet to the right of The Escalator. Rappel from the top of the climb.


standard rack, including small pieces

Comments on The Jackal Add Comment
Show which comments
By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Jul 9, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

The route is actually quite good, in my opinion. The guidebook authors give this route 1 star as well. The climbing is technical, mental, and varied.

The route starts in a very thin crack in the back of a slabby U-shaped groove (10b/c), then traverses out right on a hand rail w/ poor feet (10a), and ends going straight up an easy discontinuous crack and face (5.7).

The climb is pretty run out throughout. A couple marginal micronuts protect the first 20 feet of the climb, which is the crux. You can get a couple finger/wide-finger size cams in the 10a traverse. One or two hand size cams protect the finish.
By dnaiscool
Aug 12, 2014

Pro Beta when I led this...(and, I actually pulled off a right leg knee bar in the low groove section, which made setting gear a bit easier)..Gear listed in order of use: nest of RP's #2,3,&4 just below the RUN-OUT, and once you get to the traverse, o TCU, #2 Camalot, #3 TCU (1/2 way across) Loop a small tree (if it is still there), now you are in the easy vertical crack, .5 Tricam, 3.5 Tricam or equivalent...Belay at sweet ledge in the Escalator, Belay Pro= (2) #2TCU & #2 Camalot.
By dnaiscool
Mar 24, 2015

The '85 red Vogel guide called this .10b...and he gave the traverse a 5.7 rating: SANDBAG!! I, too, thought the rounded hand traverse was sorta tough for the grade I was expecting, but I kept my mumbling low at the time.
Hey...I also saw and did a 2-bolt mini-direct start to this, thinking it to be .11a/b at the time. The climbing as hard right away, and I did not want an ankle injury, so I stick-clipped the first bolt. Is this still there?

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About