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Cliffs of Insanity
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The Iron Lady Tower 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b C1

Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 170', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b C1 [details]
FA: Paul Ross Jeff Pheasent 5th March 2002
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,745
Submitted By: USBRIT Ross on Mar 21, 2008

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Ross on second pitch

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


A small tower that gives easy pickings for those who collect tower ascents.

P1) Climb grooves on the east side of the tower to the notch. 5.7.
P2) Follow a line of bolts trending left to the summit. C1.


The obvious blocky tower located at the point of the Cliffs of Insanity just down left of the Wiggins route . A photo on page 158 of the Bloom Indian Creek guide book shows the tower.


A few cams for first pitch.

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Rock Climbing Photo: The Iron Lady Tower
The Iron Lady Tower

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 4, 2016
By mtoensing
From: Boulder
Mar 7, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A0+

Watch out when pulling your rope. We got our rope slung on a big block in the dihedral. Ended up pulling the block down right on top of us and it landed straight on my pack. Fun little tower but what a hike! Geez!!
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 23, 2014

The first pitch is easy and the 2nd is indeed a bolt ladder but of 14 or so protection bolts only 2 have hangers. The rest require rivet hangers or stoppers with a cable that can be slid down.
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Mar 23, 2014

We left all the hangers on the FA in 2002. Someone has removed them ,typical of some of todays climbers.
By Devin Fin
Jul 16, 2014

So this thing needs 12 hangers? How are the anchors ? I'm wrapping up the trail up the prow " ie" the original trail.. an this tower is one of the first things you come to .. The trail has been slow going but should be Dunn this fall. Cheers DF
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 17, 2014

Thanks for the trailwork DF. And yes, there are 12 or so bolts without hangers, you could definitely do it with less and leapfrog. I think I had about 8 BD nuts that I used as rivet hangers. I recall the anchors being good bolts but a nest of tat.
By slim
Mar 22, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1

anybody know what the hanger situation is these days?
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Mar 22, 2016

As the bolts are ( Ithink ) still there one should be able to do with wires etc ... or be nice and take some hangers and 3/8 nuts....just in case..
By slim
Mar 22, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1

cool, thanks, good to know. would an 80m rope get you down from the top, or are there anchors at the top of the 1st pitch? trying to see if i can hobble up the hill with as little as possible. thanks.
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Mar 23, 2016

Well as you see its 14 years since I climbed the tower .. so not too sure about details .. But I do not think you will have any problems getting down with a 80m rope .. The first pitch is easy so all you need is gear for the bolt ladder ... All the Best from the UK..
By slim
Apr 4, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1

a quick conditions update; due to moving/poor planning/etc i didn't round up any hangers prior to climbing. the last pitch still only has 2 hangers (the first one off the ledge, and one about midway up. there are nuts and washers on all of the bolts, but it is handy to have a little wrench to loosen and tighten the nuts, depending on how fat the wires are on your stoppers, etc. when i did it, the wind was blasting through the gap, and even with cinching down the stoppers, a handful blew completely off the bolts when i was above them.

the sleeve of the last bolt, protecting easy free moves, sticks out about an inch or so, but the moves are easy and a small cord/webbing can slipknot the bolt pretty well. anchors were upgraded w/ fresh webbing and a locker.

i rapped down to the northwest (climbers right when looking at bolt ladder) with an 80 fairly easily. rope pull was a little iffy, but worked out ok.

really fun little tower, and very worth doing. if there are people anywhere near the base you will want to be very very careful about loose rock coming down.
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Apr 4, 2016

Well done Slim ... Glad you enjoyed it ... All The Best Paul

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