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The Inverted Englishman 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Statebrook Team
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 313
Submitted By: Benjaminadk on Oct 18, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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The bottom 2/3 of the route


Nice crack climbing. Stupid tree. Work up the obvious crack with good jams to a stupid tree growing out of the crack. Either traverse right a few feet and face climb, or make a big move reaching past the tree to better jams. You will be immediately stuck by lightning if you use the tree for upward progress. Both paths lead to a stance below a wide flared crack. Protect (optional big cam) and jam up to jugs and a good ledge. Continue straight up to high anchors.

It is also possible to traverse left to the anchors of Bowline With A Blowjob Finish.


A little right of where the approach trail meets the cliff. A small evergreen tree is growing out of the crack 40' off the deck. Left of a depression with opposing corners.


Singles to 3". A larger cam could be used but isn't a requirement. Bolt anchors.

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By Gunkiemike
Jul 13, 2015

I was able to get a very good #1 Camalot in the crack above the crux overhang. I had a big (4") cam on me but really couldn't see that being the best piece for that move.

No problem passing the tree. I did sling it though.

Nicest route we did on the cliff today IMO.
By Brian Murphy
Aug 25, 2015

Fun route. Was not struck by lightening

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