|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c PG13 [details]|
|Season:||August thru January|
|Submitted By:||Chris Plesko on Oct 1, 2009|
|Comments on The Inset||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Oct 1, 2011
Prospective from a new trad leader :)-> Being a moderate sport climber and brand new to trad, this was only be my 5th trad lead, it seemed the protection is more than suspect for someone at my level.
I would find one good placement, then double up two not so great placements. I spent a lot of time looking around for better areas to place protection but could not find them.
Maybe my bad ones were better than I thought, but I really couldn't find anything else better, I spent an hour climbing a 5.4 looking around for better pro.
Also, the 5.4 seemed harder than most 5.4s, but maybe that was because I was having problems finding good pro.
Anyway, my other 4 trad leads have been 5.6s with bomber protection to place and no problems.
My opinion and a small warning to the inexperienced like me.
By Ben Burnett
Sep 2, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
|The "Description" above makes little sense, but the "Location" is correct. The inset refers to the panel of rock that is set back into the wall somewhat - bounded by dihedrals and a roof. The inset is easiest if you start on the right side, but exciting moves can be found by starting in the middle or left side of it. Pass the roof on the right and either continue up and right to the Slot or move left to a small roof and right-facing dihedrals.|