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"The" Indian Creek guidebook?
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Administrator
Apr 22, 2013
So many options, but which is the standard/ best? 20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
1,123 points
Apr 22, 2013
David Bloom's Richard Dana
From Eugene, OR
Joined Apr 12, 2010
220 points
Apr 22, 2013
And probably stick with the older edition (2nd) S Denny
From Aspen, CO
Joined Sep 25, 2008
15 points
Apr 22, 2013
Good review on the new guide. I was skeptical that simply changing rack beta would improve the book, and it seems I was right. Greg G
From SLC, UT
Joined Oct 3, 2008
523 points
Apr 22, 2013
+1 S Denny Devin Fin
From DURANGO
Joined Jan 14, 2010
2,845 points
Administrator
Apr 22, 2013
3rd edition has some new routes - cool
unfortunately the gear lists are even further off than before. i think that part of the problem is that towards the beginning, a lot of folks gave him gear lists that he converted from camalots to friends, which has some complications. then, he probably converted from friends back to camalots, but not necessarily using the same formula. which has some complications....
slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
885 points
Apr 23, 2013
Brand-specific gear beta is the worst thing to happen to modern climbing. Brad M
Joined Sep 30, 2012
0 points
Apr 23, 2013
Gear lists (and ratings for that matter) are not important at all in the Creek. In my experience, translating other climber's gear lists is maddening and useless.

I stopped carrying a guidebook there ever since I got familiar with the different crags and their locations. I found that onsighting everything at the Creek is a better way to go.
Just look up at the pitch. It's right there in front of you!
Bob Dobalina
Joined Jun 2, 2009
70 points
Apr 23, 2013
i agree with bob. i still have yet to look at the guidebook down there. hear it has color pictures..neat! jborof borof
Joined Oct 17, 2011
0 points
Apr 23, 2013
Bob Dobalina wrote:
Gear lists (and ratings for that matter) are not important at all in the Creek. In my experience, translating other climber's gear lists is maddening and useless. I stopped carrying a guidebook there ever since I got familiar with the different crags and their locations. I found that onsighting everything at the Creek is a better way to go. Just look up at the pitch. It's right there in front of you!


I would generally disagree with this. I found that the Creek was a place for which gear beta was pretty darn helpful, especially on a longer pitch. On a short pitch, you can eyeball what you need, but on a long pitch it helps to know what size you need. Maybe your eyes are better than mine, but I can't accurately guess whether the top 40 feet of a 160 foot tall pitch is 0.5s or 0.75s. You are hosed if you take the wrong size, and carrying a bunch of each up the whole pitch isn't ideal either. Hell, even the idfference between red camalots and #2 friends can be critical. At other climbing areas, there is usually enough variation that several different pieces will go in but in the Creek there is only one right size for the gear...and you really need the right size gear.
JCM
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jun 9, 2008
5 points
Apr 23, 2013
Brad M wrote:
Brand-specific gear beta is the worst thing to happen to modern climbing.


It's pretty easy to translate between the brands after you've used lots of different gear. I would argue that the worst-thing-to-happen-to-modern-climbing award goes to bouldering.
Marc H
From Denver
Joined May 10, 2007
20 points
Apr 23, 2013
Marc H wrote:
It's pretty easy to translate between the brands after you've used lots of different gear. I would argue that the worst-thing-to-happen-to-modern-climbing award goes to bouldering.


+1
Portwood
From Your moms house last night
Joined Sep 6, 2010
5 points
Apr 25, 2013
Bouldering was the worst thing to happen to my body. Brad M
Joined Sep 30, 2012
0 points


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