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The Incisor 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jim Howe
Page Views: 3,579
Submitted By: eDixon on Sep 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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Kyle Kubes on Pussy Wuss crack

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Right when you get to the top of the approach trail, this is the offwidth that splits up the prominent leaning pillar. Starts with a hand to wide-hand crack then a rightward leaning offwidth crack to a roof. Pull through the roof and more offwidth climbing leads to the anchor. Really fun route.

(Per Max Schon's 2002 description for Unnamed 5.10/11(?) - "This is the wide short crack when you get to the base of the cliff. I've never done it, but everyone I know who has, told me it's harder then it looks.Looks like you can get your knees in the crack, but apparently they just don't quite fit. Name? Probably 5.10+"


#3 - #4.5 or new #5 Camalots.

Photos of The Incisor Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Kyle Kubes at the small roof on "Pussy Wuss C...
Kyle Kubes at the small roof on "Pussy Wuss C...
Rock Climbing Photo: get mad an send
get mad an send
Rock Climbing Photo: Barnes at the Creek
Barnes at the Creek
Rock Climbing Photo: SLAM! in to the wall! crack yer head .. poop a lil...
SLAM! in to the wall! crack yer head .. poop a lil...
Rock Climbing Photo: then eat shit!
then eat shit!
Rock Climbing Photo: pull up pull up
pull up pull up
Rock Climbing Photo: lock it down
lock it down
Rock Climbing Photo: LETS KICK IT!
Rock Climbing Photo: Here is a shot from the bottom. Good stuff.
Here is a shot from the bottom. Good stuff.
Rock Climbing Photo: feet first
feet first
Rock Climbing Photo: ...then it gets hard.
...then it gets hard.
Rock Climbing Photo: Not too bad up to this point...
Not too bad up to this point...

Comments on The Incisor Add Comment
Show which comments
By Max Schon
Nov 14, 2003

I didn't intentionally apply the bomb rating; didn't even notice it. Do you think the route is 5.10?
By Bryan Gall
From: New Castle, CO
Dec 2, 2003

This climb is a blast!! Initially very easy it goes through a very strenuous offwidth bulge in a wide #4 Camalot size. The last bit is best protected by two #4.5 Camalots (or walking just one #4.5 for a while). I would lean towards the 5.11- rating for this one. By consensus with friends, the hardest moves at the bulge are definitely in the 5.11 range.
By SirVato
From: Boulder
Mar 28, 2006

The route is called "Pussy Wuss Crack" The guide has it at 10+.
It's pretty casual to the bulge but, pulling that roof is tough!!
Two of my friends onsighted it I just rode the TR.
By Jim Howe
From: Salt Lake city
Mar 29, 2007

Tommie and I put that route up. I Intended to continue to the top but a chopper flake sits up there, and I never went back to it. It is definitely a sandbag. Quinlan and Jim Olsen did the second ascent and asked what I rated it. Under the influence of a superbowl tequila bash I said 10+,..It ain't. Where the name "pussy wuss" came from I have no clue. For me it was "the Incisor". up front and gnashing.
By Luke Mehall
From: Durango, Colorado
Feb 1, 2011

thanks for the story of the FA, one of the hardest 5.10s @ the Creek for sure. awesome line. Like your original name the best too!
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
May 4, 2011

Approch shoes = 5.10b

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