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Butterfly Crack T 
Inchworm, The T 

The Inchworm 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Drew Spaulding, 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 549
Submitted By: Drew Spaulding on Oct 5, 2014

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Me belaying Mike Santoro on lead up The Inchworm.

Trestle and CMC areas are off limits. MORE INFO >>>


The Inchworm is the straight-in hand crack on the left side of of the prominent pillar in the center of the buttress.


Pro for the hand-sized crack. It has a 2-bolt anchor.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Me leading The Inchworm.
Me leading The Inchworm.

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By Brandon Chalk
Apr 7, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Really nice hand crack, Drew. Thanks for establishing this route so long ago. I finally got over to climb it. Great hand crack and deeply inset. I would say it's a stiff 5.9. I think the technical crux may be the first move or two off the ground to get high enough where you can start hand jamming. Once the crack gets deep enough (maybe 50' off the deck), it becomes a bit offwidth, but there is a separate crack back deep in the off width which cannot be seen that provides decent jams. I pulled on a large rock that almost ripped off just below the anchors. I put it back, asked everyone to get out of the way, and let it fly. Should be good to by now.

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