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Hemingway Buttress (East Face Center)
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The Importance of Being Ernest 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R [details]
FA: Darryl Nakahira & Randy Vogel, 1982
Page Views: 2,148
Submitted By: Murf on Jan 1, 2002

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Double up the C3s in the roof and go for it. Pic b...


Pull the initial crack to the first roof. Pull up on the positive holds, and move up the thin crack. Be alert for gear placements, which are sparse but available. A fall above this roof with bad/no gear could have serious consequences on the slab below.

The second roof is the surprise of the route, discard your expectations before you get there. Interesting moves and solid gear will see you to the top.

This route is serious for the grade, but decent gear is available. The copperheads are no longer there. I took HB and BD brass and used both, but either should suffice.


Small cams and brass required, bolts on top, single rope rap down.

Photos of The Importance of Being Ernest Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo:  The mental crux is pulling the roof and busting s...
The mental crux is pulling the roof and busting s...
Rock Climbing Photo: The first crux of the climb. Pic by Kris Solem.
The first crux of the climb. Pic by Kris Solem.
Rock Climbing Photo: The burly crack start. Pic by Kris Solem.
The burly crack start. Pic by Kris Solem.

Comments on The Importance of Being Ernest Add Comment
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By Randy
May 2, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

Lead this route for the second time (23 years later) and found it to be excellent climbing and a bit scary. 3+ of 5 stars. The moves above the first roof are heady and a fall would be most unpleasant. Above, as Murf said, small brass nuts are essential, and save a 1 to 1.25" cam for the final roof (bomber placement here). Route takes a wide variety of gear from tiny nuts to 2 inch cams.
By Crack Addict
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 18, 2005

Wanted to lead this one after Prepackaged but decided to TR it instead after rapping the route. Protection opportunities above the roof were scary. Aside from that it is an awesome climb and was fun to do on TR.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Nov 6, 2006
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

Even as a TR, this is one awesome route! Thought provoking face and crack climbing. Do it.
By Dan Hickstein
Feb 24, 2007

I didn't use any brass nuts on this climb. The first roof protects well with a bomber medium stopper. A blue-alien size is really nice for the second roof. Really fun moves!
By Michael Ybarra
From: on the road
Apr 6, 2009

A good selection of thin nuts is what you want on this climb.
By darryl banks
Mar 15, 2011
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

fell....hung....hung again, and fell once more....scary yet fun climb and so cool. ill get it clean next time..
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 21, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

I found with modern small cams and brass that this is not R rated. Great gear but thoughtful to place. Don't forget to exit right.
By Mike Fogarty
From: La Quinta, CA
May 11, 2012

I will remember this lead climb with CLOG COGS, it was my first roof pull 1983 I was 19 years young, nice climb!
By Leavittator
Oct 28, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Engaging route, quality moves. I didn't have the correct micro cams so the few good ones I had, hogged up the holds. For that reason, it would be easier on top rope. On lead, it felt like 10d.
By dnaiscool
Mar 29, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

The initial overhanging hands get in that flash pump...just in time to pull the roof. When I led this it had three copperheads poking straight out, so I equalized them all and put a "Screamer" on that. I found that an old school Zero Metolius TCU...the purple one...mad a solid piece for the last roof move, which is not too bad if you search the lip to the right...just sayin'...I'll go with the 5.10d rating here...and an "R" is warrented...unless you have just the right gear, and a lot of experience placing it. Tim Wolfe fits that bill!

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