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The Ice Climb 

WI5-6 M7

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Original: WI5-6 M7 [details]
FA: First pitch unknown, Nate Brown and Sam Macke second pitch
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter
Page Views: 495
Submitted By: Nate Brown on Jan 16, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Looking up pitch two.

Description 

First pitch is 30 meters of seasonally different but dependable ice. Overhanging hard non-bolted M7 or M8 if not fully formed(I'm a bad judge of m-ratings FYI). Some years the chimney forms a burly 70' of difficult ice climbing. Tobey Grohne sent the pitch several years ago, Macke threw down a proud onsight the day we did the second pitch. Hard to know the early history of this dependable tram accessed drip...

Second pitch is 30 more meters of difficult rock climbing with some loose rock. Probably M6+?. It would rate 5.10 in rock shoes. A hand crack roof with slabby feet marks the crux. This pitch was also crampon-clad onsighted on its (pitch 2) FA.

Location 

Route is on the eastern-most large formation of the buttress about 20' east of "Knocking on the Sky"

Route can be rapped with one 60 meter cord. Beware the top rap barely reaches the anchor atop the ice.

Protection 

Pins through 4 Camalot with plenty ice screws will do the job. 2 stainless steel bolts and hangers now live at the 30 meter mark at the top of the ice. 2 more ss bolts live 30 meters higher at the end of the technical terrain. The pro on p1 is kinda scarce through the crux and very trad making this lead feel a little scary compared to a bolted M8.


Photos of The Ice Climb Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Decent shot of both pitches
BETA PHOTO: Decent shot of both pitches
Rock Climbing Photo: Good pic of pitch 2. P1 anchor is just above the v...
BETA PHOTO: Good pic of pitch 2. P1 anchor is just above the v...
Rock Climbing Photo: Macke sending
Macke sending

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