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The House Always Wins 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Barroso, Unema,
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 662
Submitted By: Toast with Butter on Jan 21, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: The House Always Wins

Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

I always looked at this very aesthetic line thinking it would be amazing, When I rapped down I found a handful of old 3/8 inch cobweb filled bolt holes that the Gambler might have put in. Since he wont care, I decided to bolt it up, and am really happy with how it climbs.

This climb shares the start with the unknown Ayers 11c, just left of short stop and gila monster.

One you pull the 11c opening roof, move right and up to the ledge. Continue up and right past two bolts that you should extend with runners.
Eventually you are stemming in the giant corner. Clip the bolt off to your right and transfer onto the main face of the climb. The bolt after that is a bit tricky to see, but it's next to the first huge jug on the face. Sustained 5.11 climbing follows, broken up by decent shakeouts, all the way to the tippy top of roughrider. You could even top out if you wanted.

Location 

Just left of shortstop which is left of the massive chimney on the left side of the North Buttress

Protection 

21 bolts, I would bring long draws for the bolt under the first roof, the two bolts after the first standing rest, and maybe another for the second to last roof. BRING A FULL 70 METER ROPE!


Photos of The House Always Wins Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tie a knot.  I was stranded in space with my 70M. ...
Tie a knot. I was stranded in space with my 70M. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: looking up at what's to come, trying to beat the o...
looking up at what's to come, trying to beat the o...

Comments on The House Always Wins Add Comment
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By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 21, 2015
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

An awesome rope-stretching route! While it is all enjoyable, the top third is spectacular. Thanks for the addition.
By 1Eric Rhicard
May 24, 2015
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

See picture about being stranded in space. Awesome climb. I would suggest that Toast moves those anchors down to where the last bolt is. The consequences of someone lowering off the end of the rope are not worth another 10 feet of 5.7 climbing. This also would reduce rope drag while lowering. It is such a great route after pulling on to the upper wall I look forward to my next visit.
By Toast with Butter
From: Tempe, AZ
Jun 10, 2015

ill add a lower anchor then when im out there next
By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 10, 2015
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Are you sure you had a full 70m rope, EFR? I was able to climb it without issues.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 11, 2015
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

I am not sure and need to measure it. Will get back to you.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 11, 2015
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Well I just measured mine and it is only 66M long. That is short but still only 12 feet short. I would still encourage that the anchors be lowered to the last bolt for rope rubbing and to make sure those who are unaware they have a shorter rope will be safer.

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