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The Hot Zone 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Lawrence Stuemke and Allison Sheets, 1995
Page Views: 8,559
Submitted By: Michael Walker on May 26, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (110)
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Hot Zone. Great climb, great views!


A Monastery classic. Located about halfway up the SE corner of the Boneyard formation, the climb begins on a secluded, dramatic shelf perched above the valley floor. The views are to die for - on the ground and on the route. A bouldery start leads to continuous, inspiring climbing just right of the sharp SE arête.

Access to the climb is via a small shelf on the lower end of the Boneyard, found on the Catacomb trail. Look for a bolt route (Saint Sixtus Scoop, 5.10b) which starts in a smooth scoop-like wall above the shelf. Scramble up past the bolt route along the narrowing shelf and find the Hot Zone arête above.

To begin, climb back up to the entrance shelf, clip the 1st bolt and jump back to the ground for the full-on, feelin' safe crank - the direct start is a nice boulder problem right up the face, but the hardest moves of the climb can be avoided from the left. Above the first bolt is the unavoidable crux move of the climb and takes one to easier - yet no less interesting - climbing along the right side of the arête.

Hang out from a two bolt anchor and enjoy the view then rap 60' to the ground.


6 bolts to a two bolt anchor

Photos of The Hot Zone Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This is Tabula Rasa, but the climber to the right ...
BETA PHOTO: This is Tabula Rasa, but the climber to the right ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Prepping to rap down.
Prepping to rap down.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sending The Hot Zone.
Sending The Hot Zone.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mounting the arete about halfway up.
Mounting the arete about halfway up.
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric leads up Hot Zone.
Eric leads up Hot Zone.
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying the view.
Enjoying the view.

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By Joe Keyser
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Jul 17, 2002

GREAT climb for a short sport climb! Really photogenic....
By Michael Kullman
Aug 4, 2003

Wow, this is a really, really enjoyable route. Made my first trip to the Monastery this weekend and this was our 4th route of the day, and probably the most fun. Great moves, position, and scenery. Good photo ops for someone willing to scramble uphill of the route.
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 27, 2005

Best bolted 5.9 I've ever done. and the hike in is a piece of cake -- it hugs the slope's contours, so practically no elevation changes.
By Nate Oakes
May 30, 2006
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

My favorite route at The Monastery (so far!). Absolutely stunning views all the way up. Feels pretty exposed, in that you're climbing an arete with nothing but Big Thompson Valley beneath you. The start was the toughest part for me, I began a bit to the right of the arete and then traversed over (decently chalked moves). You can pre-clip the first bolt to make it a less scary of a lead. Probably not necessary, but I used some fun foot-crossing moves to kind of dance around a bit. You can use some great holds on the arete for most of the route. Enjoy the view!
By climber73
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 17, 2007

I liked this route so much I led it 2x in a row!!! My favorite at Monastery so far....
By Adam Paashaus
From: Greensboro, North Carolina
Apr 29, 2010

Moving right to the anchors seems a little runout but not bad. Great route with positive holds most of the route.
By keith story
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 25, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great moves at the second-to-last-bolt and is very fun in between! For the area, this definitely fits in as a 5.9. As for + and -, I have no idea.

Wonderful warm-up and a sweet lead.
By Chad R. Johnson
From: Loveland, CO
Aug 22, 2012

Excellent little sport route! If you are a new 5.9 leader, make sure you get on this if you are here.
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Jun 27, 2015

Dale Haas and I replaced the cold shut hangers at the anchor with SS Fixe. We added SS quicklinks and rings. The hardware for this project was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association - ASCA ( They appreciate your support.

Nice to see the stuff I put up there 12 years ago (plated 5/16" quicklinks + link of 3/8" chain) was in OK shape, but stainless is better.
By Wyatt Peck
Sep 14, 2016

Good, positive climbing following the edge of the face. Beautiful views from the top and bolts where you need it. Slightly funky move at the very bottom but pretty well-protected.

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