REI Community
Lost Angel
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.9 Crack T 
AAArete S 
Archangel S 
Autumn S 
Awakenings S 
Be Here Now T,S 
Boy's World T 
Caterer, The S 
China Doll T 
China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 
Crazy Wisdom T,S 
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 
Disneyland S 
Divination S 
Divination Direct S 
Drop Zone S 
Dynamometer S 
Dyno Arête S 
Earth Voyage S 
Freedom S 
Fright Grooves T 
Host, The S 
Hunky Monkey S 
Interzone T 
Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 
Killing in the Name T 
Knowoneness T 
Life on Mars S 
Long Dong Dihedral T 
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 
Lost in Tradslation T 
Naked Lunch S 
Night Grooves S 
Outta This World T 
Podophobia S 
Primal Cinema S 
Rage Against The Machine T,S 
Raise the Titanic S 
Rock Odyssey S 
Rush S 
Shape Shifters T 
Shunyata T 
Signs of Life S 
Spiders From Mars T 
Standard Route S 
Strange Cargo S 
Take the Power Back T 
Technical Remote Viewing S 
Time Traveler T,TR 
Vaino Step, The S 
Variation to Hunky Monkey S 
Weenie Roast T 
Wide Crack T 
Zentropa T,S 

The Host 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas & Moe Hershoff, 2003
Page Views: 149
Submitted By: Bruce Pech on Sep 2, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Begin about 10' right of Rage Against the Machine and 15' left of Jungle Blues from Jupiter. There's a better photo of the route under the entry for "The Vaino Step." Follow a line of 5 bolts up a moderate .10b face toward an arete on the right. The 6th bolt is drilled into a large, sloping rest ledge under a 130 degree roof. Undercling the roof then clip the 7th bolt from a chalky, 3/4" edge. Stretch or dyno from the 3/4" edge to a left hand jam in an abrasive crack (strenuous) and work your feet up crystals until you can reach a fin on the right. Clip the 8th bolt (a difficult clip with ledge-fall potential if you bypass it) and struggle over the lip of the overhang on mediocre hand holds. The anchors are a few feet up to the right. Lower 60' from links.

The 15' of climbing from the ledge to the anchors is sustained with several moves of .11c or .11c/d. Tape or a spider mitt will save some skin on your left hand.


8 QDs (A shoulder length sling to extend the 6th clip is optional).

Comments on The Host Add Comment
Show which comments
By slim
Nov 5, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Accidently climbed this thinking it was Rage.... When I was up there, I was thinking 'damn, this is tougher than I remember it'. Kind of an awkward flick to a weird jam.
By Mark Rolofson
Jun 11, 2017
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The climb offers a good warm-up to a powerful crux. I use the face holds to the lip. Then I use a couple hand jams over the lip to pull onto the slab. Last time I did the route I got cut on the back of my hands. Old skin ain't so tough! There is a wide hand jam in the roof, but I have always avoided it. It is really rough with some sharp crystals. I have considered climbing the route with spider mitts so I could use this jam. Instead I have always done the overhanging face moves, which are fun with a bit of a dyno.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About